104 THROUGH ASIA 
converted into a temporary tent in case we were surprised 
by a snowstorm. . 
On 22nd February 1894 the string of horses started in 
charge of the jighits for Utch-kurgan. One horse was 
laden with photographic materials, packed in two yakhtans 
(boxes). A second carried my topographical and other 
instruments, books, and the medicine-chest ; the third the 
ammunition-chests ; the fourth and fifth the commissariat 
supplies ; the sixth and seventh my weapons and personal 
belongings. Last of all, at the tail-end of the caravan, 
were the three horses carrying forage for the others, one of 
them almost buried from sight under two enormous bags 
stuffed with straw. 
Two guides on foot went on first, and directed the horses 
wherever necessary. The jighits rode. As the long 
imposing-looking caravan filed away out of the yard of 
the governor’s palace, I stood and watched it with not a 
little*^ pride. I did not accompany it, but spent that night 
at Margelan, the last I was to see of European civilization 
for many a month to come. That evening everybody m 
Margelan assembled within the governor’s hospitable walls 
to bid me farewell. What a contrast to the evenings which 
immediately followed ! 
At eight o’clock on the following morning, after a last 
word in dear old Swedish with General Matveyeff and 
Lieutenant Kivekas, both light-hearted sons of Finland, 
and a hearty send-off from the hospitable governor and 
his charming family, I said good-bye to Margelan, and 
cantered away after my caravan. I caught it up at Utch- 
kurgan. The distance was only 23 miles ; and yet even 
in that distance the contour of the ground rose 1100 feet, 
up to an altitude of some 3000 feet above sea-level. 
Utch-kurgan is a large village picturesquely situated on 
the river Isfairan, at the point where it emerges from^ the 
northern declivities of the Alai Mountains. I was received 
with a flattering welcome. A mile or two outside of the 
village I was met by the volastnoi (native district chief) of 
the place, accompanied by his colleague, the volastnoi of 
Austan, a place higher up in the mountains. The former 
