136 
THROUGH ASIA 
done hitherto. Rehim Bai was dismayed at what he had 
done ; but, as he really was not to blame for what had 
happened, I let him off with a mild wigging. What was 
the use of heaping reproaches upon him ? That would 
not mend the barometer. Besides, I still had three other 
aneroid barometers and hypsometers. 
With the idea of affording me some consolation for my 
loss, the men arranged a concert for the evening. One 
of the Kirghiz came into my tent, and squatting down 
began to play the kmmmss, a three-stringed instrument 
played with the fingers. The music was monotonous and 
of a melancholy cadence ; but it harmonized well with 
the surroundings, and the moods they inspired. In a 
word, it was typically Asiatic. I sat and listened to it 
with pleasure, giving my imagination captive to the music, 
the soft moaning of the night wind, the gentle crackle 
of the fire. How many and many a night did 1 not 
.spend thus during the long years that followed, listening 
to the dreamy sounds of that primitive Kirghiz instrument ! 
How many a dark, solitary winter afternoon did I not 
while away in this foolish fashion! In course of time 1 
grew accustomed to the kaumuss, and derived as much 
pleasure from it as the Kirghiz did themselves. In fact, 
1 grew fond of it. Its soothing music carried my mind 
away into the fairy realms of day-dreams ; my thoughts 
flew far away to my home amid the dark pinewoods of 
Sweden. And how sweet and pleasant a thing it is to 
dream yourself back amongst those who are near and 
dear to you ! Many a night I was lulled to sleep by 
the measured tones of the kaumuss, played as an accom- 
paniment to some melancholy Asiatic song. 
March 3 rd. The storm had subsided, though the sky 
was still enveloped in clouds. The peaks of the Trans- 
Alai range shimmered with the loveliest tints of grey, and 
white, and pale blue. Two hours of travel brought us 
to the little aul (tent-village) of Kizil-unkur, and another 
two hours to the pass of Ghaz, a low saddle among the 
southern spurs of the Alai Mountains. All the way, even 
as far as Kashka-su, the river Kizil-su flowed close to 
