172 
THROUGH ASIA 
mountain-sides there was little, except in the declivities 
whicli faced north. Of vegetation there was not a trace. 
We went on steadily steering for the south-east and east- 
south-east, the country retaining the same characteristics as 
before. At Ak-gur (the White Grave), where a conspic- 
uous spur jutted out into the glen, we were met by Kul 
Mametieff, a Tatar, whom the commandant of Fort Pamir 
had sent to act as my interpreter. He was dressed in full 
uniform, and wore half-a-dozen medals on his breast, and 
brought with him a letter eloquent of friendly greetings 
from his master. We continued to ride on till we came 
to Togolak-matik (Round Cauldron Valley), or the junc- 
tion of the valley of Rang-kul with that of Ak-baital. 
On the 1 8th we accomplished the last stage of this 
portion of our long journey, namely the lower extremity of 
the valley of Ak-baital, and the part of the valley of the 
Murghab which we had to traverse to get to the Russian 
outpost on the Pamirs. The first thing we noticed, upon 
catching sight of the fort at a distance, was the Russian 
flag flying from its north-west corner, proclaiming the 
sovereignty of the Czar over the “Roof of the World.” 
When we drew nearer, we saw that the ramparts were 
beset with soldiers and Cossacks to the number of 160, 
drawn up in line. They gave us a cheer of welcome ; and 
at the main entrance I met with a hearty reception from 
the commandant, Captain Saitseff, and his officers, six of 
them in all. They conducted me to the room in their own 
quarters which had been ready for me a whole week. A 
yurt was set apart for the use of my men. 
As soon as I got my baggage stowed away, I went and 
had a good bath, and then joined the officers at mess. It 
was a meal not soon to be forgotten. I delivered the 
greetings I had brought from Margelan. I had a thousand 
and one questions to answer about my adventurous ride 
across the Pamirs in the middle of winter. Then, when 
the Cossack attendants served round the fiery wine of 
Turkestan, the commandant rose, and in a neat speech 
proposed the health of Oscar, King of Sweden and 
Norway. If ever a toast was responded to with real 
