CHAPTER XVI. 
FROM THE MURGHAB TO BULUN-KUL 
O N 7th April 1894, after partaking of a substantial 
breakfast, I bade adieu to Fort Pamir, though I was 
escorted a good distance on my way by the commandant 
and his officers. Arrived at the little torrent of Ak-baital, 
we found some of the Cossacks awaiting us with tea. 
Then, having thanked my Russian friends for the splendid 
hospitality they had shown me during those never-to- 
be-forgotten days — a last shake of the hand from the 
saddle, a last wave of the cap, and away 1 spurred 
towards the north, followed by the Interpreter of the fort, 
the Tatar, Kul Mametieff, whom the commandant sent 
with me as a guard of honour. 
Just as daylight was fading, we came to the twin lakes 
Shor-kul and Rang-kul, which are connected by a narrow 
sound. There we took up our quarters for the night, 
camping in a. yulameika, a tall, conical tent with no smoke- 
vent. Meanwhile my right-hand man, Rehim Bai, had 
fallen ill, and all the way to Kashgar was totally unfitted 
to discharge his regular duties. We had to transport him 
thither like a bale of goods on the back of a camel. His 
place was taken by the man of whom I have spoken before 
— Islam Bai ; and it was during this part of my journey 
that I first learned to know and value that excellent man s 
many excellent qualities. 
The snow lay in scanty patches ; but both lakes were 
sealed with thick sheets of Ice. Strange to say, however 
the sound between them was open water, and^ swarme 
with wild-duck and wild-geese. The configuration of the 
ground— grassy plains sloping gently down towards the 
lakes— suggested that the lakes themselves were shallow. 
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