THE MURGHAB TO BULUN-KUL 21 1 
selves to be persuaded, saying they hoped to have an 
opportunity to return my presents when I came back from 
my trip up the Mus-tagh-ata. Having taken their leave in 
due form, they galloped off in a whirlwind of dust, through 
which their white horses, their scarlet uniforms, their 
glittering weapons were for a long distance dimly visible. 
And we never saw a glimpse of the gentlemen again ; 
although they indicated their presence by forbidding the 
Kirghiz of the neighbourhood to furnish me with supplies 
of mutton, fuel, and other necessaries. 
The rest of the day was spent in making preparations 
for the ascent of Mus-tagh-ata. I decided to take only 
four men with me, namely Kul Mametieff, Islam Bai, and 
the two Kirghiz, Omar and Khoda Verdi. Four pack- 
horses were got ready to carry the necessary baggage — 
provisions, bed, furs, presents, medicine-chest, photographic 
apparatus, scientific instruments, and several other indis- 
pensable articles. Everything else was left behind in the 
care of Khoja, the Sart, who was also charged to look 
after Rehim Bai. The more comfortable quarters I suc- 
ceeded in getting for the invalid had done him no good. 
The winter journey over the Pamirs had completely 
broken him down. His cheeks were white and hollow, 
his eyes big and with a vacant glassy stare in them. His 
friends would scarcely have recognized him, he was so 
changed. He offered a he-goat to Allah, and declared 
that he felt a little better in consequence. 
In the evening we were honoured with a visit from 
some of the Chinese soldiers from the fort. They begged to 
be allowed to peep into one or two of my commissariat boxes 
and yakhtans (packing-cases). We afterwards learnt that 
up at the fort they believed all my boxes were packed 
full of Russian soldiers, who in that way were being 
smuggled across the frontier. The fact that each and 
every trunk I had was only capable of holding at the 
niost about one-half of a soldier did not in any way help 
to allay their suspicions. I opened two or three, and 
after that they appeared to be easier in their minds. 
During the night the Chinese placed sentries all round 
