CLIMBING MUS-TAGH-ATA 
227 
Togdasin Beg’s friendliness ; for he had sent us a yurt, 
together with a fresh supply of provisions and fuel. 
The 19th April we were visited by a snowstorm even 
at the altitude of our camp. Since then, it was evident, 
we might possibly have to wait some time for favourable 
weather, I sent Kul Mametieff down into the valley to 
bring up a sufficient supply of provisions to last us 
several days. 
Meanwhile, taking Islam Bai and two of the Kirghiz 
with me, I made a little excursion to the edge of the 
Yam-bulak glacier. The rest of the Kirghiz, who the 
day before had complained of a splitting headache and 
feelings of nausea, were allowed to stay behind in camp 
and rest. It was altogether a most interesting and 
instructive trip. We obtained an accurate topographical 
chart, profiles, various measurements, and a dozen photo- 
graphic views. Armed with rope, ice-axes, and alpen- 
stocks we started from the side of the glacier, and 
ventured some 350 yards across its surface, until stopped 
by a crevasse sixty feet deep. I inferred from certain 
protuberances of the ice about 100 feet in height, that 
the minimum vertical thickness of the glacier was probably 
150 to 170 feet. During this venturesome e.xpedition we 
leapt over several yawning crevasses, though not without 
observing the well-known precautions of ice-craft. 
That evening I determined to move the yurt round to 
the southern face of the mountain, and make another 
attempt to get to the top from that side. But my plans 
were unexpectedly thwarted. For like an evil spirit my 
old inflammation of the eyes (iritis) suddenly seized me, 
causing me excruciating agony. I applied the remedies 
I had with me, but all to no purpose. The next day 
the pain was so intense, that I was obliged to leave my 
men and ride down to Su - bashi. Thus ended my 
ambitious hopes. The members of the expedition were 
paid off, and the company dissolved. And Mus-tagh-ata, 
which glittered in the glorious sunshine, a magnificent 
sight for those who had eyes to see withal, was for the 
time being left to enjoy his solitary state in peace. 
