CLIMBING MUS-TAGH-ATA 
229 
in through the holes in the sides. Notwithstanding this, 
I intended stopping there two or three days, because the 
inflammation continued to get worse. 
But my plan was roughly knocked on the head ; for 
about noon on the 26th a messenger came from Jan Darin, 
saying that, if I hadn’t gone by an early hour on the 
following morning, he would help me on my way with his 
soldiers. We had no choice, therefore, but to obey orders. 
But I will hasten to add, in exculpation of the Chinese, 
that throughout the whole of my journey, this was the 
solitary occasion on which I met with insolent treatment 
OUR CARAVAN IN THE VALLEY OF THE GHEZ-DARIA 
at the hands of a rude and unpolished mandarin, for 
during the course of the succeeding years I saw the 
Chinese character from a very different side, and found 
them a truly amiable race of men. 
On the 27th April I sent Kul Mametieff back to Fort 
Pamir. He was subsequently honoured with a medal by 
King Oscar of Sweden and Norway. In addition to that. 
His Majesty paid a similar compliment to more than one 
of the Russian officers stationed at the fort, in recog- 
nition of the distinguished services they had rendered 
tne ; so that it would scarcely surprise me to learn that 
the Russians take me for a prince in disguise ! 
At d ar-bashi (the Head of the Narrow Passage) wc 
