A CHINESE DINNER-PARTY 
245 
preparations, the real constituents and names of which 
remained mysteries to me. As for tasting them, I really 
had no confidence in their suspicious appearance, still less 
in the rancid odours they gave off. The culminating 
triumph of the feast was smoked ham in molasses, washed 
down with tea and Chinese brandy, strong and boiling 
hot. The greater part of the numerous dishes served at 
the banquet had been brought from China proper, and 
consequently, owing to the vast distance, at a very con- 
siderable cost. Evidently his Excellency, who at ordinary 
times lived very plainly himself, was desirous to show us 
every mark of respect. But I am sorry to say we scarcely 
did justice to the skill of the Chinese cuisine, although a 
Brillat-Savarin would no doubt have gone into raptures 
over it. 
1 he only person who worthily upheld the honour of 
Europe was Adam Ignatieff; but he did wonders, exciting 
the amazement of the rest of us, and even the admiration 
of the Chinese themselves. With punctilious conscientious- 
ness he partook of every one of the forty-six courses, and, 
with the rosary still round his neck and the cross on his 
breast, drank seventeen cups of brandy, stuff which to 
niy throat was as hot and burning as sulphuric acid poured 
upon iron-filings. And at the end of the three hours that 
the banquet lasted, he rose every whit as sober as when 
he took his seat at the besfinninn. 
■1 he conclusion I came to about Chinese state banquets 
was, that you require a certain amount of time to become 
accustomed to the many unfamiliar dishes which are put 
before you. All the same, several of them were excellent, 
some even quite delicious. Undoubtedly the most delicious 
o all was the soup made from the edible nests of the 
swallow, or more correctly swiftlet, a dish which is seldom 
served in this far off region because of its extremelv hio-h 
price. ^ 
On one of the walls there were painted two or three 
^°^*’’^Bes. I enquired what they signified, and was 
they meant “ Drink and tell racy stories.” There 
Was no need for any such admonition ; for the spirit 
