CHAPTER XXI. 
FROM KASHGAR TO IGHIZ-YAR 
E left Kashgar on the evening of 21st June 1894. 
The caravan consisted of half-a-dozen pack-horses, 
laden with provisions, instruments, khalats (Kirghiz coats), 
cloth, coloured handkerchiefs, and bag-caps, intended as 
presents for the Kirghiz ; these articles being valued 
amongst them almost as much as money. Besides these 
things, I had my tent-bed, winter clothing, felts, weapons, 
and ammunition. The only reading I took wdth me 
consisted of certain scientific books, and half a year s 
issue of a Swedish journal, as old as the hills, but none 
the less delightful on that account, when every line con- 
jured up dear old Sweden before my mind’s eye. 
My companions were the Evangelical missionary 
Johannes; Islam Bai, from Osh in Fergana, the suc- 
cessor of Rehim Bai ; the Taranchi Daod (David) 
from Kulja, who acted as my interpreter of Chinese ; 
and Ekbar-khoja, caravan bashi (leader), from Fergana. 
It was from the last-named I hired my horses. In 
addition, I was to be provided every day with two 
Kirghiz guides, to point out the road, d he Dao Tai s 
good offices exceeded all expectation. Not only did he 
give me two big bright-coloured letters of introduction 
of a general character, he also supplied me with an 
official proclamation to the commandants of Sarik-kol 
and Tagharma, to the effect that I was of a rank 
equivalent to a mandarin of “ the second button,” and 
was accordingly to be received and treated as such. 
In sharp contrast to their former behaviour towards me, 
the Chinese local authorities were now anxious to do all 
in their power to serve me. 
