THE GLACIERS OF MUS-TAGH-ATA 321 
this also a stream finds its way down the northern de- 
clivities to Little Kara-kul. 
On our way back to the yurt we were in several places 
astonished by the brilliant colouring of the Alpine flora. 
The flowers seemed to flourish in spite of the niggard 
soil of the moraines, and were conspicuous by their almost 
glaring hues. The higher we ascended the purer and 
more vivid the colouring. No doubt the slight absorption 
of light by the atmo.sphere at those lofty altitudes has a 
direct influence on vegetation. 
o 
Another day was devoted to the Great Gorumdeh 
glacier. From a grassy ridge we rode our yaks out 
over the rugged moraines, and terrible difficulty we had 
to get across them. Rock succeeded rock, and the yaks 
often stepped through the holes between them, though 
luckily without falling. I could not help admiring the 
cleverness of these animals in picking their way ; though 
riding them is by no means pure enjoyment. You re- 
quire some practice before you can feel thoroughly at 
home in the saddle. One moment the heavy animal 
balances himself on the sharp edge of a rock ; the next 
he jumps incontinently over a yawning chasm, and some- 
how manages to secure a foothold on the opposite side. 
Sometimes, again, he pulls himself together, and with 
rigid, immovable legs, proceeds to glissade down a 
precipitous gravel slope, where a two-legged being would 
inevitably come to grief Riding a yak, however, in 
spite of the animal’s undeniable good points, is a trial 
of patience, by reason of his absolute sluggishness of 
temperament. He often comes to a dead stop, and has 
to be reminded of his duties with a cudgel. To any 
application of the whip he is absolutely insensible, whilst 
he looks upon a moderate blow as a sort of caress, and 
answers it with a cheerful grunt. Nothing short of a 
bludgeon would convince the beast I rode, that we were 
not out on a mere pleasure trip. In spite of blows he 
plodded on at his usual phlegmatic pace. 
I now ascertained that the moraine belt on the left side 
of the Great Gorumdeh glacier was much broader than I 
1.-21 
