ASCENDING MUS-TAGH-ATA 
353 
body of the giant like a tattered mantle, hanging down the 
declivities in points and folds; while its edge is often 
broken off so abruptly that the beautiful, blue-green ice, 
seen underneath the white snow with which it is capped, 
produces quite a dazzling effect. It is of course only on 
the convex parts of the mountain that this glacial forma- 
tion, which resembles the Norwegian glaciers, can be 
developed; for in the concave parts we found the usual 
Alpine glacial structure — a bowl-shaped /ztW- basin and a 
deep, narrow glacier-bed. 
On the return journey we kept between the ice-pyramids 
and the lateral moraine, where a stream glided noiselessly 
along like oil flowing in a well-greased metal pipe. It had 
undermined the base of one of the pyramids so much that 
every minute it threatened to topple over. 
Finally we paid a visit to Togda Bai Beg, who called 
together the elders of the village and offered us dastarkhan 
(refreshment). His aul laj^ on the bank of the glacier- 
stream, and was surrounded by pastures on which the 
camels, yaks, and horses of the aul were grazing, and 
where the women were at work milking the sheep. 
Several of these Tajik women were pretty, and looked 
happy and good-natured in their picturesque, but slovenly, 
dress. They seemed to have frequent errands to the tent, 
and generally took the opportunity to have a good look at 
the strangers. 
The view to the east was one of the grandest I have 
ever seen. In front of us the colossal mountain mass, 
soaring up to a giddy height— to the ethereal workshops 
in which the eternal snow spins the delicate webs which it 
sends down the slopes of the mountain as offerings to the 
sun , where the winds gambol at their will; and where the 
stillness of death divides sovereignty with the bitter cold. 
Calmly and majestically the glacier moved from between 
its mountain portals like a king issuing from his royal hall ; 
and the moraines towered above it like ramparts fencing 
round an impregnable castle. The turbid glacier-stream 
danced joyously down its stony bed, as glad as a school- 
boy off for a holiday, happy at escaping from the thraldom 
1.-23 
