MOONLIGHT ON MUS-TAGH-ATA 381 
at once, and began to strike camp ; but they were mani- 
festly greatly relieved when the order was countermanded. 
One peep through the tent-opening made us glad to 
creep back again inside. There, at any rate, we had 
shelter from the wind — a wind which penetrated furs, 
felts, and felt boots. I earnestly hoped that by midday 
the gale would abate, and we might continue our work. 
But on the contrary the storm waxed more violent, and by 
twelve o’clock it was evident the day was lost. I therefore 
left the three Kirohiz behind to strike the tent and load 
the yaks, whilst I and Islam Bai and Yehim Bai, wrapping 
everything round us we could lay our hands on, mounted 
our animals, and down the snowdrifts we raced at a spank- 
ing pace. The yaks literally Hung themselves headlong 
down the declivities, diving like otters through the snow, 
and in spite of their clumsy, heavy bodies never stumbling 
or slipping a step. To sit in the saddle was something like 
riding a high sea in a rocking, pitching skiff. Under such 
circumstances a man who was not sure of his seat was 
likely to have a pretty bad time of it. Often I was obliged 
to fling myself backwards, till my back touched the back 
of the yak, and I had constantly to adjust my balance to 
his unexpected, but agile and dexterous, movements. 
How glorious it was, when we had left the clouds of 
blinding snow behind us up above, and saw our camping- 
ground far down below our feet, on a level with the top of 
the Finsteraarhorn ! 
We ate our dinner, of which we stood much in need, 
washing it down with steaming tea. Then, our vital 
energies restored, we were soon sleeping the sleep of 
the just, each in his corner. But the whole of the follow- 
ing day we felt like convalescents recovering from a long 
illness. 
I had now attempted the ascent of Mus-tagh-ata four 
times, but each time without .success. I do not .say how- 
ever that an ascent of the summit is an absolute impossi- 
bility. To reach it up the face by which we forced a 
passage on August iith is impossible — impossible that is 
without extraordinary appliances, such as it would be 
