486 
THROUGH ASIA 
handsome white camel, which led the string, with a big 
copper bell provided with a heavy iron tongue, did get 
to the other side of the desert ; but he died soon after- 
wards from the fatigues of the march. Bog’hra was an 
exceptionally well-proportioned animal, patient and good- 
tempered ; I chose him to ride upon. Nahr was a vicious 
beast, always trying to bite and kick the moment anybody 
went near him. Babai, the oldest in the troop, and of 
a grey colour, was the first to succumb. The other three 
were young, lively things ; having had a long rest, they 
were always ready to march, and took real pleasure in 
beinof on the move. 
They chanced to be just “ moulting ” when they arrived. 
Every day big shaggy cots of their thick, warm winter 
hair fell off, so that they had a patched, shabby appearance 
so long as the process of shedding lasted. Each camel 
was provided with a good soft pack-saddle, stuffed with 
hay and straw. Islam brought also a whole armful of 
arkhans (ropes of camel’s hair) to tie on the baggage with, 
and three large camel-bells. 
The animals were tethered in a large courtyard im- 
mediately opposite Niaz Beg’s house, and were given 
their fill of good hay, a luxury they enjoyed for the last 
time. It was very pleasant to stand and watch my own 
splendid camels crouched on the ground, eagerly munching 
the fragrant hay, and see how their big brown eyes shone 
with placid enjoyment. Our two dogs, Yolldash and 
Hamrah, were however of a different opinion. The 
former in particular could not tolerate the camels. He 
barked at them till he was hoarse ; and was visibly well 
pleased with himself when he could get near enough to 
snatch a tuft of hair out of one or the other of them. 
Islam Bai had further engaged two trustworthy men 
in Yarkand. One, Mohammed Shah, was a greybeard 
of fifty-five. He was accustomed to looking after camels, 
and was the only person who could go near the refractory 
Nahr without being bitten. Although he had left wife 
and children behind in Yarkand, the desert had no terrors 
for him. He was a capital fellow, as honest as the day. 
