AN EARTHLY PARADISE 513 
and reed-beds on the north tinted the steppe green and 
gold ; the mountains were softened into violet shades ; 
the sheets of water glanced dark blue. 
Whilst I sat admiring the scene from the top of the 
hill in the cool of the afternoon, the wind gradually died 
away, the sun set, steppe and lakes became enveloped 
in a light mist, stillness and peace reigned over the scene. 
The only sounds my ear could catch were the gentle hum 
of the mosquitoes and midges, the croaking of a frog or 
two in the marsh, the distant scream of a wild-goose, and 
every now and again the tinkle of the camels’ bells 
amongst the reeds. It was a glorious spot. I enjoyed 
its soothing beauty to the full. How different from the 
days which followed! How often during the next two 
weeks did my mind fly back to that idyllic scene as to 
an earthly paradise I 
But in those regions the twilight is very short, and I 
hastened to get back to camp. The men were already 
fast asleep, except Islam Bai, who was busy getting my 
dinner ready — mutton broth, fried potatoes, and tea. The 
thermometer read 68 ° Fahr. (20° C.) ; but during the night 
it fell to 50°7 Fahr. (io °4 C.), and I felt it actually cold. 
Near these lakes we again came upon traces of human 
beino-s There were one or two deserted reed huts on 
the shore ; and next day, 21st April, when we continued 
our journey between the lakes and the mountain, we came, 
on the other side of some high dunes, upon the wheel 
tracks of arbas (high wooden carts) going through a 
poplar wood. The discovery vastly surprised us all. My 
men at once set them down as marking the road which 
they had heard speak of as following the left bank of the 
Khotan-daria. But I surmised it was some hitherto 
unknown track, which skirted the base of the Masar-tagh 
as far as the stream just mentioned. To clear up the 
mystery, we resolved to follow the trail as far as it went, 
no matter where it led us to ; but we had only advanced 
a little way, when the wheel-tracks disappeared, and the 
path came to an end. Shortly afterwards the poplar wood 
came to an end also. 
I--33 
