724 
THROUGH ASIA 
by the great highway from Kashgar to Khotan. The 
space between the gates forms one long, broad bazaar, 
covered in with wooden roofs, and late of an evening 
is the scene of a lively traffic by the light of flaming 
oil lamps. In fact the road resembles an interminable 
tunnel, lined on both sides with stalls and stands ; and 
the crowds, the shouting and noise, as well as the long 
strings of camels slowly piloting their way through the 
throng, announced that we had entered the precincts of 
a big city. As a matter of fact, Yarkand, with its 
dependent villages, possesses a population of 150,000, 
and is thus the largest city in East Turkestan. 
To reach the house which the aksakal of the Andi- 
janliks had prepared for us, we had to thread our way 
through a perfect labyrinth of crooked streets and lanes 
of the Mohammedan quarter. 
We stayed two days in Yarkand, partly to give the 
horses a rest, partly that I might see something of the 
town and its environs. Accompanied by the aksakal, 
I rode over to call on the amban. His yamen or 
official dwelling was a much more imposing edifice 
than that of his colleague in Kashgar, being approached 
by not less than three lofty and picture.sque gates, 
ornamented with sculpture and variegated colours. In 
the courtyard we found a great number of native 
suitors and litigants assembled, desirous of putting their 
cases before the amban, and getting the decisions of 
Chinese law upon their several complaints. There were 
men from the adjacent villages, complaining of a 
deficiency of water in their irrigation-canals ; servants 
complaining that their masters had not paid them their 
wages in full ; thieves awaiting a magisterial inquiry, and 
their consequent punishment. 
The amban. Pan Darin, w'as a big, fat old gentleman, 
with a grey goatee beard. He received me with a polite 
and friendly smile, and graciously inquired after my plans. 
In the evening he sent me presents of forage, maize, 
and wood for burning ; the next day, when he returned 
my visit, I presented him with a revolver. In my round 
