AT KORLA AND KARA-SHAHR 859 
the course of a century. Then, in the next following 
century it may possibly happen thirty times. And so it 
will go on, increasing in frequency in proportion as the 
Haclick-gol pushes out its delta further and further into 
the lake, until eventually the river will raise a barrier 
to its own further advance, and instead of flowing into 
the lake will pour the greater portion of its torrent 
along what is now an intermittent watercourse, partly 
choked with sand and soil. When that result is brought 
about, the river will no longer flow in its old bed, but 
will flow past the lake at a few miles’ distance. Thus 
we have precisely the same peculiar conditions as those 
which obtain at Issyk-kul, namely a lake embedded be- 
tween the lofty crests of the Tian-shan Mountains, with 
a large river flowing past its western extremity, so near 
as almost to touch it, yet without contributing to it one 
gallon of water. The lake would then decrease in area, 
whilst the salinity of its water would increase, precisely as 
is the case with the Issyk-kul. 
Kara-shahr (the Black Town) fully deserves its name ; 
for it is without comparison the dirtiest town in all 
Central Asia. It stands on the left bank of the river, 
on a level, barren plain, totally destitute of any feature 
of interest. Nevertheless it is a large town, very much 
larger than Korla, consisting of a countless number of 
miserable hovels, courtyards, bazaars, and Mongol tents, 
surrounded by a wall, and is the chief commercial em- 
porium in that part of Chinese Turkestan. 
Politeness dictated that I should make a call upon the 
amban of the place, Hwen Darin, Accordingly, with 
my local passport in my pocket, I went alone and un- 
suspecting to his yamen (official residence). He was a 
little old man, some sixty years of age, with a white beard, 
who received me smilingly, and with especial friendliness 
and politeness, and offered me tea, pastry, and an opium- 
pipe. Through the mouth of a d urki interpreter, I told 
him what hacl brought me there ; and when I went on 
to express my regret, that I had not brought a more 
authoritative passport with me, he replied, with all the 
