ON PRZHEVALSKY’S LOP-NOR 913 
Before turning back, we forced our way once more to 
the northern shore of the lake. There, from the top of a 
characteristic tamarisk root-mound, I obtained a wide view 
in every direction. To the east there was not so much 
as a square yard of open water ; nothing but a veritable 
forest of reeds of the rankest growth. In the opposite 
direction, towards the west, the narrow waterway by which 
we had come looked like a coil of blue ribbon winding- 
through the yellow reeds. And an equally vivid contrast 
was afforded by the small green patches of young spring- 
shoots scattered thinly amongst the serried reed-beds. 
We returned to Abdal by the same way we had travelled 
out. The route having been already plotted, I had nothing 
to do except to lean back on my felts and cushions, and 
listen to the gulping of the water against the sides of the 
canoe, as well as watch the fascinating interplay of colour 
in the transparent water. Over the deeper parts of the 
lake it was ultramarine blue ; but over the shallower 
parts it gleamed, in consequence of the reflection from 
the yellow reeds, like jelly made of Rhenish wine. 
When we came out upon the Tarim {the River) immedi- 
ately east of Kum - chappgan, the current was stronger 
against us, and we went slower than on the outward 
journey. On the way out, the canoes had been swept 
along this part of the river at a tremendous pace, and all 
the men had to do was to dip their oars in lightly every 
now and again to guide their slight, elastic craft. Now 
however, on the way back, they were forced to ply their 
oars with a resolute will. 
I was anxious to gain time, and so kept the men hard at 
it as long as daylight lasted, and even a good way on into 
the night ; nor did they murmur, for I promised to reward 
them well. . The moon came out and illumined the narrow 
waterway as with the penetrating rays of a lighthouse. 
The night was still and mild. Nothing disturbed the 
brooding silence save the rhythmical swing of the oars and 
the occasional splash of a fish leaping to the surface of the 
river. It was a fascinating night, one I shall not readily 
forgfet. 
O 
