CHAPTER LXXVIII. 
AMONGST THE SPURS OF THE ARKA-TAGH 
!.ONG the foot of these mountains was a dry sai, 
/A running towards the east ; it was of large size, but 
probably only carried water after heavy downfalls of rain 
or snow. On the south-east it was bordered by a ridge 
in the shape of a spoon turned alternately up and down 
— a type of surface-contour which we often met with 
afterwards. Beyond the ridge came a small depression, 
the bottom of which was white with salt, although now 
dry. These temporary salt-pans likewise belonged to the 
typical characteristics of the region. 
Often however the ground was perfectly level, so that 
we journeyed across a veritable plateau. The view in 
every direction was unlimited, the horizon in the far, far 
distance being bounded by relatively low hills ; but there 
was nowhere a glimpse of either snowy peak or glacier. 
The atmosphere was pure, so that we were able to 
see the horse-caravan like little black dots a long, long 
distance in advance. I used them as fixed -points for 
drawing three-mile base-lines for my route-determina- 
tions. The only vegetable growth that bid defiance to 
the niggardly soil was yappkak. There were however 
numerous indications that boghe (antelopes) visited that 
region, at any rate occasionally. Islam Bai made many 
attempts to stalk these swift-footed animals, but never 
once succeeded in catching them napping. 
The sky was for the most part thickly veiled with 
clouds, white and beautiful, and so soft and plastically 
formed that they looked like living creatures, as they 
sailed slowly and silently past us, close down near to the 
earth, but permitting occasional glimpses of the pure blue 
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