TIBETAN STORMS 
1063 
rain. Then the wind changed, and a terrific gale set in 
from the west. It blew right in our teeth, and nearly froze 
us to death. The horses literally toiled against it, as 
though they were struggling up a steep hill. Clots of 
frothy scum drove against the shore, winding in a sinuous 
line in and out of the coves and bays. The gulls however 
seemed to enjoy themselves thoroughly, as they \ rocked 
complacently on the crest of the waves. 
At length the lake narrowed down to a long creek, 
pointing west, in which direction the depression was con- 
tinued by a tolerably broad valley. The north shore was 
overlooked by the lofty mountains which formed a con- 
tinuation of the Arka-tagh. 
Their ramifying spurs, viewed in perspective, were like 
gigantic tetrahedra (see p. 1059) ; as they stood there in a 
long line, they put me in mind of houses overlooking a corso 
or marine drive. Upon reaching the end of the lake, the 
horse-caravan had steered due north, making for the foot 
of the mountains. We saw the white tents gleaming in 
the throat of a narrow glen a long time before we reached 
them. The camping-ground was however ill-chosen, being 
in the dry bed of a torrent full of stones and gravel ; but 
the perpendicular cliffs at any rate afforded shelter. 
September 23rd. Our next camp. No. XXXIII., 
reached after a march of thirteen and a half miles, 
was almost exactly opposite to camp No. XXXI., so 
that' the last two days had not brought us a single 
yard further to the east. We had bad weather all 
day ; first a blinding snowstorm from the east, after 
that a gale of wind which swept down from the 
northern mountains. We kept close to the lake shore, 
having the mountains only about two miles distant 
on our left. The rocky mountain-wall was broken by 
a succession of narrow glen-mouths, in which the 
torrents, now however dry, had formed huge talus slopes 
of gravel detritus. 
Occasionally our route led over very steep hills, on one 
of which I lost my riding-horse. It was a first-rate 
animal, and had carried me ever since my summer trip to 
