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THROUGH ASIA 
mountains, which cut off the view. The valley to the 
east, which curved round towards the north, was likewise 
encircled by high intercepting mountains. The snow 
lay very deep on the pass, and was more plentiful on 
the east side than on the west. The valley to the east, 
down which we descended through masses of gravel and 
stones, was likewise more deeply trenched than the valley 
on the west. The latter had a gentler incline, and formed 
a sort of step or Transitional offset of the Tibetan plateau. 
We now perceived that the low pass which we crossed 
immediately north of lake No. 20 formed an important 
watershed. South of it the streams drained into the 
self-contained Tibetan lakes which possess no outflow : 
whilst north of it they made their way into the salt 
depression of Tsaidam, which is likewise destitute of an 
outflow. 
The stream which had hitherto coursed along the valley 
did not accompany it in its curve to the north ; but, after 
picking up a number of tributaries, fell to work upon the 
herculean task of carving its way through the granite 
mountains. At present its path is a deep, narrow ravine, 
with perpendicular walls, and its bottom choked with 
huge stones. Islam Bai, who still led the way as usual, 
threaded the ravine with the caravan. But Dorcheh, who 
rode beside me, to tell me the names of the mountains, 
valleys, and streams, said, there was a better road up 
on the top of the left side of the valley, the ground con- 
sisting of soft, yellow clay. 
From this upper path, which sloped away abruptly to 
the defile, we heard the stream boiling along at a depth 
of three hundred feet or more below us. The path was 
not more than a foot broad, and clung closely to every 
irregularity of the ground ; in places it was actually 
scooped out of the almost vertical walls, they too being 
of the same soft material. In consequence of the recent 
rains the surface was slippery and greasy. Dorcheh rode 
first, whilst I followed close at his heels, with my heart 
in my mouth. All at once my horse put his foot a trifle 
too near the edge of the soft clay path, and down he went. 
