KOKO-NOR 
1163 
they inquired why we lighted a fire in it at night, Loppsen 
told them it was to keep it ready for action. If danger 
threatened, all we should have to do would be to fling in 
the powder and balls, and it would at once spit out a 
murderous rain of bullets. 
The Tanguts said it was nine months since the 
Dungans went past Yikeh-ulan, and they stole 400 of 
their sheep, besides 140 horses, cattle, and yaks. 
They expected the lake and streams would become 
frost-bound for the winter in about ten or fifteen days, 
and told me they usually remained frozen three months 
or so, but that the time varied a good deal according 
to the severity of the winter. The ice on the lake] was 
however very untrustworthy, for on bright windy days 
numbers of cracks, “ lanes,” and holes were wont to be 
formed in it, and they remained open until calm weather 
set in again. All the same they said the ice was as 
thick as a man’s arm is long. 
On the rocky island in the middle of the lake there 
was a temple, frequented by pilgrims. But when the 
ice splits and cracks, the “ lanes ” or openings prevent 
the pilgrims from crossing on horseback. They are 
therefore obliged to walk across, and drag provisions 
and fuel for three days behind them on sledges, tempo- 
rarily constructed out of the two wooden ribs which 
constitute the frame of their pack-saddles. It frequently 
happens that, when half-way across, they encounter gaps 
in the ice which they are unable to get over, and so are 
forced to turn back. Sometimes too they are imprisoned 
on the island by a thaw, and have to wait until the frost 
sets in again. But they never go so late in the season 
as to risk being detained on the island until the following 
winter. The lamas who live on the island lead a terribly 
solitary existence, and are exclusively dependent for food 
and other necessaries upon the offerings which the 
pilgrims carry to them. My Mohammedans thought that 
the lamas had a fine time of it, for they were inaccessible. 
All round the shores of the Blue Lake there was no such 
thing as a boat to be seen. 
