I 202 
THROUGH ASIA 
the exception of two, which I and Islam Bai wanted, and 
sufficient provisions and money to last them the whole 
journey home. I also allowed three of the men whom 
Captain Wellby had engaged at Ladak and lost on the 
way, and whom we picked up at Ten-kar, to go with 
my men, giving them a horse and provisions. Parpi Bai, 
who had made the journey before, was chosen leader 
of the caravan, and I gave him a good revolver, together 
with a supply of cartridges for it. All the men were 
satisfied and grateful, and we parted mutually pleased 
with one another. Then they went their ways ; and 1 
hope and trust succeeded in reaching their homes as 
happily as I reached mine. 
After this big hole had been made in my purse, Mr. 
Ridley calculated and weighed the silver pieces (Chinese 
coin) 1 had left. There were 770 Hang or taels (about 
^120), amply sufficient to take me to Peking. There 
was however still a long stretch of road to travel 
before I should reach my goal. The post-couriers do 
the distance in twenty-eight days. It took me fully 
three months. 
Want of space forbids me entering upon any detailed 
description of Si-ning-fu. Suffice it to say, that the city 
is enclosed within a square wall, which, according to 
Asiatic ideas, is well-nigh impregnable. It has been 
well and carefully built, is thick and massive, and 
actually affords room for a street along the top, on 
which the soldiers keep watch. The view from the 
wall was magnificent and commanding. Looking over 
the city, you see a rich mosaic of characteristic Chinese 
roofs, covered with red pantiles, and decorated with 
dragon arabesques. All the streets crossed each other 
at right angles, running exactly parallel with the town 
walls. The main street traversed the heart of the 
city, and upon it abutted the most important yamens 
or official dwellings and offices, with their strangely 
painted signs, their stone lions and dragons, their doors 
decorated with rich sculpture. A few edifices of a 
similar imposing character might be found in some of 
