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had been cut to get sheep to the grass country above, but was now quite abandoned. The track led 
through dense forest, and in places was blocked by trees lying across. These giants, in some parts 
near the track, had been torn up and broken by some whirlwind, and lay like fallen men on a battle- 
field. You can easily imagine that this, together with the undergrowth which had sprung up, made 
travelling with a heavy swag rather laborious work. Only those who have travelled with swag and 
gun through such country and up steep hills have any idea of the labour required. 
“ In the evening the track got to an end, when I came out on the grass country, at 3500 feet 
above sea-level. Here I camped. Three dwarf birch-trees formed the roof of my shelter, and 
a few tussocks formed my bed. After lighting a good fire, I searched for water, which is generally 
found on these Alps clear and good ; but in this case I was doomed to disappointment, for all I 
could get was stagnant water full of insect-life. In spite of my fire and shelter, I found it bitterly 
cold; a sharp wind came from across the ice and snow of the glaciers which chilled me to the 
marrow. Sleep was out of the question ; and as the moon had now risen, I took some provisions and 
a gun and ascended higher. 
“It was a lovely night indeed, and Nature had put on her most romantic garb. How I wish 1 
could describe it to you ! Imagine the silver shimmer of the moon lighting up the landscape, causing 
endless shades and reflections of the hills and vegetation ; the valleys covered with a silver-grey 
mist, the sparkling stars competing with the glaciers in brightness, and the dark cliff's dotted over 
with patches of snow. All this grandeur and the solemn silence of the scene put me in mind of 
the fairy tales of my childhood. Yes ! here is loveliness enough, but the fairies have gone. I 
walked on for about three hours, up and down these mountains and gullies, when I heard the 
booming noise of some bird. Thinking I had now come on the bird I had so anxiously searched for 
on all my West Coast trips {Noiornis mantelli), I carefully followed up the sound, which led me to a 
lagoon ; but my disappointment was complete, for instead of a Notornis it proved to be a Bittern. 
Through the silence the booming appeared to be far louder than the usual sound of the Bittern. I 
was indeed much surprised to find this bird at an altitude of about 4000 feet. Journeying over huge 
blocks of rocks (which lay as if they were on purpose thrown together) on one side and deep preci- 
pices on the other, I came to a stop, and there was nothing for it but to await daylight. There being 
no vegetation, I could not light a fire, so had to walk about to keep warm. Dawn at last appeared, 
and no Laplander ever welcomed the glorious sun more joyfully than I did in this region. Still 
ascending, I crossed snow-fields which were of considerable depth in some places. The snow had 
been blown together, and was frozen so hard that 1 had to take my tomahawk to chop it down so as to 
get softer snow to refresh myself with a wash. My breakfast was snow dissolved in my mouth, with a 
little oatmeal and a few biscuits. The walking now became easier over the snow, and I was able to 
travel much faster. At last I arrived at the source of the left branch of the Paringa river, and a short 
distance from the Hooker Glacier. The grandeur of the scene caused me to stop, and although I have 
travelled through many of the mountainous parts of Europe, and have ascended some of the glaciers, 
I never beheld anything more beautiful than this charming scene before me. The sky was clear and 
cloudless. The Paringa river was seen winding its course, like a huge eel, through the valley in a 
northerly direction to the ocean ; N. W., Lake Paringa, like a horseshoe, and Lake Roskill lay buried 
in the dense forest below ; W.S.W., the Blue river with its oblong lake ; S. and S.E., a large extent 
of forest with dark cliffs and enormous fissures, and rugged snow-clad peaks. Then Mount Cook 
came in full view with his companion snow-capped mountains, and their network of glaciers stretching 
out for miles. It was bitterly cold and freezing. Then the sun rose higher, throwing his rays on 
the masses of ice and snow, and making them scintillate like mountains of diamonds. This imposing 
scene did not last long, I am sorry to say, for the heat of the sun caused a vapour to rise which 
soon covered up this lovely panorama.” 
