528 
VOYAGE TO THE 
CHAP, of fruit of their labour. The persons who are most deserving then 
XVIIl. receive rewards, and the day finishes with a feast and a dance. In 
July, spite of these encouragements, the gardens are very little attended to. 
Hay, though it is got in at the proper season, is in such inadequate 
proportion to the wants of the cattle, that were it not for wild garlic 
they would famish before the spring vegetation commences, 'fhe 
flavour that is communicated to the milk and butter by the use of this 
herbage appears to be so familiar to the inhabitants that they find 
nothing unpleasant in it ; but it is very much the reverse with strangers. 
Every family has one or two cows, of which great care is taken during 
the winter, and, strictly speaking, some of the inhabitants live under 
the same roof with their animals, with no other partition than a screen 
of single boards. There are very few oxen in the town, and when 
required they are driven from llolcheresk, about ninety miles off, where 
pasturage is more abundant. Beef is consequently a luxury seldom 
enjoyed ; and sheep and goats cannot exist in the country, in conse- 
quence of the savage nature of the dogs, which are very large, and 
occasionally break away from their fastenings ; fish therefore constitutes 
the principal food of the inhabitants. 
Necessarily frugal, and blessed with a salubrious climate, the re- 
sidents in general enjoy good health, and appear to lead a contented 
life. They are extremely fond of the amusement of dancing, and fre- 
quently meet for this purpose. There are several musicians, and musical 
instruments are manufactured by an ingenious exile. As spirituous 
liquors of any kind in the country are scarce, these meetings are not 
attended with any inebriety, and serve only to pass away the dull hours 
of a long winter’s evening. The only refreshment we saw produced at 
them consisted of whortle and cran-berries ; these were piled up in two 
or three plates with a dessert-spoon to each, and passed round the com- 
pany, almost every body using the same spoon. Society is necessarily 
very mixed, or there could be none in so small a population, and when 
strangers are not present it is not unusual to see exiles at the governor’s 
parties. 
In the winter sledging is a favourite occupation. The dogs are here 
very large and swift, and are so much esteemed that they are carried 
