20 
VOYAGE TO THE 
CHAP, exclusion of the costly gold and silver tissue stuffs of Spain, which, 
Perouse observes, were entailed in families like diamonds, and 
October, descended from the great-grandmother to the children of the third 
and fourth generation. Even the national musical instrument, the 
guitar, has fallen into neglect, and has been supplanted by the En- 
glish piano-forte. It woidd have been better for the lower orders 
of society, of which a large portion of the population of Conception 
consists, if the use of this simple instrument had been retained ; for it 
is well known, in foreign countries, how many hours of innocent mirth 
are beguiled in the happy circles it assembles around the cottage 
doors ; and how many idle characters its fascination deters from 
indulging in less innocent occupations, to which the Chilians are 
equally prone with other nations; though I am by no means an 
advocate for its being prized to the extent it once was by the Por- 
tuguese, who, after a battle in which they were defeated, left 14,000 
guitars upon the field*'. 
I'he entertainments most frequented in Conception are cock- 
fighting and billiards. All classes of society assemble at the pit, aiid 
if there be no fight, will light their cigars, and chat whole hours away, 
in the hope of a match being made up, and are dispersed only by the 
approach of night. The English cocks are most esteemed, and are 
sometimes valued at a hundred dollars a-piece (twenty guineas). The 
Chilian spurs cut as well as thrust, and greatly shorten the cruel ex- 
hibition. Some of the governors are said to have imposed a tax on 
these establishments for their own private advantage, but without the 
authority of the laws. 
Of the country round Conception I have little to say, except 
that it has undergone a great change since the days of its prosperity. 
In the parallel of 37° on the western side of a great continent, a 
luxuriant soil may be expected to produce an abundant vegetation. 
This district has, in consequence, been famous for its grain, vines, 
fruits, esculent roots, &c., and for its pasture lands, on which formerly 
were reared immense herds of cattle, and horses of the finest breed. 
But the effects of the disturbed state of the country are as manifest 
* Mengiana, tom. i. 
