4 
PARK AND CEMETERY. 
ROSES FOR BORDER PLANTING IN THE PARK LANDSCAPE. 
ter is that they have no wild seeders 
like the grafted or budded plants. 
There are a few vigorous growing va- 
rieties which do well enough on their 
own roots. Roses budded low, with the 
stock eyes removed when planted, 
however, are as a whole preferable, as 
they have a much better system of roots 
and develop a more vigorous growth. 
A watchful eye will readily detect the 
seeders, and they must be removed as 
fast as they appear. This is a point in 
which the visitor to the garden must 
be instructed, as most people are not 
aware of this trouble. 
Roses are generally planted in the 
spring as soon as the soil is free from 
frost, open and fairly dry. In the East- 
ern states, however. T have seen very 
good results from fall planting, and 
thoroughly recommend it. Plants set 
out not later than Nov. lo and prop- 
erly protected, show headway during 
the first season, over plants planted 
the following spring, without any loss 
by winter kill. 
The necessary winter protection for 
roses is easily provided, yet most peo- 
ple do it on wrong principles and go 
to unnecessary trouble and expense. 
The parts of the plant to protect are 
the roots and that part of the wood 
nearest the stock; therefore the best 
and simplest method is to pile up the 
soil around the root stock as high as 
possible, say, eight to ten inches. Tie 
the shoots together first and heap up 
the soil before hard frost sets in, or 
better about the middle of November. 
Leave the tops to themselves and let 
jack Frost do his pruning. After there 
is 2-3 inches of frost in the. ground, 
a good layer of manure, over and 
among the plant hills is all that is 
needed. If the manure or other cover- 
ing is put on before the frost has set 
in, mice are apt to take refuge in the 
protected ground and do serious dam- 
age. 
In the spring, rake the manure down 
between the hills- and pull the soil 
around the plants down over the ma- 
nure. This may make the beds too 
high, in which case the surplus is simp- 
ly removed. The beds, however, had 
better be 4 to 6 inches higher than the 
surrounding walks. 
Now comes the very important spring 
operation — the pruning, in which the 
general public is very ignorant and 
where many gardeners show poor 
judgment and lack of knowledge. The 
hybrid perpetuals need a severe prun- 
ing, some varieties more than others. 
Vigorous growing varieties should be 
cut back to 5-6 eyes, while less strong 
growers must be cut back to 3-4 eyes, 
but both must be relieved of all super- 
fluous, weak and dead wood close to 
the stock and main shoots. Five to 
eight shoots so left standing is all that 
a plant should be expected to develop, 
for I repeat again, we prefer 12 to 18 
perfect blooms to 40 medium or lesser 
grades. 
The hybrid teas and teas, on the 
other hand, need little pruning — in fact, 
the shortening of the main shoots of 
about 1-4 of their length — and the re- 
moval of the weak and dead wood is 
about all that is called for. This prun- 
ing operation should not be undertak- 
en too early, the best time being when 
the eyes begin to break. 
Summer pruning is but little prac- 
ticed, yet it is entirely practicable and 
results in a second crop of blooms, in 
fact, in a more or less uninterrupted 
production of flowers during the entire 
season. Under this term, I under- 
stand the severe cutting back of the 
main shoots from time to time as they 
get through flowering. The result of 
rose pruning as herein described is eas- 
ily understood; it is the means of 
keeping the plants young, vigorous and 
productive, and keeps them within the 
allotted space in the bed. 
All roses should be transplanted once 
at least every eight years, and where 
summer pruning is practiced every five 
or six years. This transplanting is re- 
quired in order to enable a thorough 
root pruning, giving the plant a 
GENERAL VIEW OP ROSE GARDEN PLANTED BY THEODORE WIRTH 
Elizabeth Park. Hartford, Conn. 
