May 29, cont. aboard Nile str. 
13 
thine 1, 1955 
now oil fired (steam boilers), but few old wood burners are left. 
Wood is too scarce and too much needed for hcane cooking in native hutsj 
and in the galley aboard too. Mmt tliis Arab cook of ours can't turn 
out on t^iat old wood burning kitchen range is a caution, very, very, 
tasty dinners, occasionally pastries that you'd like to have more of. 
¥e could use him in the States. Also at Cape Buffalo were large sacks 
of dura, kaffir corn, sorghum to us, liad sorghwi syrup this noon over 
a number of tiny cream puff like pastries, minu^he filling and they 
were good had six but the waiter moved the platter to the next table} 
happily I should say. I shouldn't eat so mucii in places where I can't 
cljmb on the scales (haven't seen my weight in two months, and believe 
it's still as beforefi hope]). 
Five a.ra. saw Attar, and all I could see was a large metal roofed 
church little way back fran shore. Not a church I learned later but 
a goverrment secondary school (high school about) that has under the 
same roof a Protestant as well as Catholic chapel! An American missionary 
told me that the Sudan governtrient p>ay5 about 3A the cost of the schools 
and schooling, the native, and resident children get} there seem to be 
few primary schools, and higher as well that are purely state run and 
build, Hiis Attar school seems to be one of then and wisely caters to 
both faiths} Moslems have their own schools, but government which has 
so little of schools and quadified teachers does pay 3/U expences, 
buildings, furnisiiings and teachers' salaries. I think it's grand, 
wise and far seeing. How much is due to English influence I do not know. 
How long it will continue is anybody's guess. Full independence comes 
to the Sudan in '56. Already Arabic must be taught in all schools as 
