PARK AND CEMETERY, 
I9T 
PROTECTING TENDER TREES AND SHRUBS IN 
WINTER. 
The proper protection of partly tender trees, 
shrubs and plants in the winter season is a subject 
interesting to every one that has to care for such sub- 
jects. There is much to be learned in regard to 
this, even by those among us who have had a life- 
long experience. It astonishes me to find out how 
many more trees and shrubs are hardy than I knew 
of years ago. And to-day many a friend is doubt- 
ful of the hardiness of many things which I can 
show him growing here, where they have been for 
several winters. As I write there comes to mind 
the glorious evergreen Magnolia of the south, Mag- 
nolia grandiflora, the English holly, Ilex aquifolia, 
the crape Myrtle, Pomegranate, Abelia rupestris, 
Ligustrum Japonicum, Aucuba Japonica, Cunning- 
hamia sinensis, and Azalea indica alba, as among 
many others which are classed as too tender for 
here, and which are rarely seen, yet I could show 
them out of doors in winter to any one who wished 
to see them. Then there are many conifers which 
thrive well when properly cared for. As I write 
Cryptomeria Japonica and Cupressus Lausoniana 
come to mind, as well as the Deodar, Lebanon and 
Mt. Atlas cedars. 
Taking the Magnolia grandiflora and Aucuba 
Japonica as illustrations, let it be borne in mind 
that what they need in winter is protection from 
the sun, chiefly ; and secondly, from high winds 
These plants, and many similar ones, do not con- 
cern themselves, so to speak, about the mercury in 
the thermometer. What they want is darkness. 
Kept well in the shade and free from winds is half 
the battle. The other half is the keeping of the 
roots in unfrozen soil, by the aid of a good cover- 
ing of forest leaves. With all evergreens the source 
of danger lies in great light, causing excessive tran- 
spiration Add to this roots in frozen soil, unable 
to supply what the foliage is losing, and we have 
the source of winter killing of evergreens. 
Two years ago I tried an experiment on a Mag- 
nolia grandiflora, which will be of interest to re- 
late. The southern and western sides were shielded 
from the sun by arbor-vita branches secured about 
them, but the northern side was left entirely ex- 
posed. When spring came and all were uncovered 
the northern side was the most perfect of all. As 
an additional proof that it is the sun which does 
the harm is the fact that no matter how cold it is 
before January, the evergreens spoken of are never 
injured when not protected. As a fact, I never 
cover until after New Year’s, when the strengthening 
heat and light admonishes me to do it. At the pres- 
ent writing, Dec. loth, not a thing is covered, save 
the figs, which are buried a few inches under ground. 
The rhododendron is a plant often greatly mis- 
managed. I have often seen screens erected on 
their northern side to break the wind, while no 
mulching or shadingof the foliage had been thought 
of. The first thing to have been done should have 
been the mulching, to keep frost from the roots. 
The second thing, the placing of leaves or some- 
thing over the foliage to keep out the sun and light; 
the screen on the north side, the third move. The 
preservation of plants in this way is on the same 
plan as that followed by the gardener who thaws 
out his frozen house plants by placing them in a 
low temperature and in the dark. Keep the light 
away, and many a nice plant can be added to the 
outside list. High winds dry out evergreens badly, 
hence shelter from gales is of great importance, as 
is unfrozen ground, that roots may continue active. 
Dry soil in winter is unfavorable to trees spoken of. 
Good rains before winter are helpful, indeed neces- 
sary, that the roots may easily find that which they 
will surely have great calls for. 
With deciduous trees and shrubs, roses, &c., the 
chief point is to keep frost from the roots. With 
the ability to make good the drying out going on 
overhead, the victory is usually with the plant, even 
with such as are deemed tender. Mulch well and 
keep tops dark by strawing up, evergreen boughs, 
or like means. 
Many things, such as the Pomegranate and the 
Crape myrtle, will survive it a very strong plant be 
set out to start with. With wood of an inch in 
thickness and of two or three years age, it will do 
far better than of but one year’s growth. I have 
seen instances of this in the case of Crape myrtles 
and Azalea indica alba. Both of these do well 
here in such cases, but it is hard to start them up 
from small plants. 
Last spring my hopes of adding to my outside 
list ot hardy evergreens were raised by finding that 
a plant of the Sweet Bay, Laurus nobilis, which 
had been left out all winter, accidentally, had got 
through with hardly any injury at all. It is out 
now, and in the best possible place to give a good 
trial to what I advocate, being in a corner of a 
board fence where not a ray of sun will reach it all 
day, save that of the first hour of the morning. 
Finding it had wintered so well led me to try two 
other subjects, Portugal Laurel, Cerasus Lusitani- 
cus, and English Laurel, Cerasus lauro- cerasus. 
These will be mulched and the tops exposed to the 
air, but not to the sun. The English Laurel I have 
strong hopes of, as it does splendidly at Washing- 
ton, D. C., there being groups of them about 
the Capitol buildings, perhaps 15 to 20 feet 
high. 
Joseph Meehan, 
