26 
PARK AND CEMETERY, 
not please the eye ot the commissioners, for whom 
the line of beauty seemed to be straight instead of 
curved. A later visit to this suburb showed that 
these trees had been cut down and their places taken 
by a straight row of two-inch elms. Along a coun- 
try road there grew naturally fine specimens of sugar 
maples, beeches, oaks, lindens, sassafras and other 
trees. The owner of an adjoining farm wished to 
improve the roadside, and so cut down these natur- 
ally beautiful long-lived trees and planted in their 
places the short-lived and not always beautiful 
Lombardy poplars. In a city which I have known 
for many years, and which is always spoken of as a 
beautiful place, there was one street which, on ac- 
count of its undulations and its passing many large 
residence grounds, was considered especially at- 
tractive. The grades were not steep, probably 
nowhere rising more than six feet in one hundred. 
On visiting the city last year, I found this highway 
in the condition shown in the figure at the bottom 
of page 205 of volume VII. The residents had pro- 
tested against the change in grade, but the Board 
of Public Works was obstinate. In another western 
city there were a number of exceptionally fine burr 
oaks and hickory trees, in positions varying from 
about three to five feet from the lot line, on one of 
the residence streets. The street was very broad, 
so that the space each side of the roadway was at 
least twenty-five feet wide. For practical use and 
convenience the sidewalk might have been anywhere 
from one to ten feet from the lot line, but the City 
Council had passed an ordinance that the sidewalk 
should be placed at a uniform distance of four feet, 
so the City Engineer said that these trees would 
‘ ‘have to go.” 
Such instances might be given indefinitely. They 
show the need of education; of calling peoples’ at- 
tention to good examples of roadside plantations, 
and of realizing the real importance of our subject. 
Village improvement societies ought to accomplish 
much good in this direction by studying natural ef- 
fects, by getting the best suggestions available, by 
seeing the best examples, and then doing planting 
that will make people enthusiastic over the beauti- 
ful result. 0 . C. Simonds. 
WATER-LILIES— WHEN AND HOW TO GROW THEM. 
Aside from natural water there are three recep- 
tacles mainly used for the growing of water lilies — 
namely, tubs, tanks and ponds. 
TUBS are less used than tanks or ponds coming 
in as an. invaluable makeshift to those lacking bet- 
ter facilities. Ordinary half-barrel tubs are the most 
numerous, though tierces, vats, hogsheads, etc., are 
often sawn down and used. The tub is filled to 
within 8 or 12 inches of the top with soil, the lilies 
planted the tub placed in full sunshine and kept full 
of water. They should be wintered in the cellar. 
Cement basins or TANKS, either under glass or in 
open air, are most satisfactory places to grow all 
kinds of water plants. The size and shape of the 
tank are points to be adjusted by the owner and the 
purpose for which it is intended. Circles, ellipses 
and parallelograms are mostly used. We prefer 
the latter; irregular and naturalistic character may 
be given in the planting. 6 by 12 ft. or 12 by 20 ft. 
and 2 ft. deep are convenient dimensions for small 
tanks. 20 by 50 ft. and 3 ]/ 2 ft. deep in the middle 
is a good size for the larger nymphaeas. Victorias 
should have at least 700 sq. ft. of water surface. 
The tank should be given a sunny location. In the 
absence of water works, water to replenish with dur- 
ing the summer will have to be provided for from 
a spring, well, lead troughs from the roof of some 
building, or otherwise. Two barrels of water per 
week will supply a 12 by 20 ft. tank during a scarce 
time. 
The most economical tank is made by digging 
into the ground. Soil from the excavation may be 
thrown around the margins sufficient to make a neat 
embankment if desired. Before the masonry is be- 
gun a supply, an overflow and a drain pipe should 
be put in place, and if the tank is to be artificially 
heated, connections for the flow and return pipes 
should be put through the walls in course of con- 
struction. The walls should be of brick or stone 
laid in cement and the soil well packed around the 
outsides. In cold climates they should be 13 inches 
thick; in the latitude of southern Kentucky 8 inches, 
further south 4 inches thick will suffice. For the 
bottom beat the soil down firm and cover to the 
depth of four inches with coarse gravel or broken 
up brick or stone; on this pour thin mortar made of 
one part sand and two parts cement, seeing that the 
gravel is coarse enough and the mortar thin enough 
to run freely to the bottom everywhere. Then fin- 
ish both bottom und sides with a good coat of Port- 
land cement. In latitudes where there is no dan- 
ger of hard freezing or in greenhouses, a good coat 
of cement plastered to the soil will be sufficient 
without a wall. Care should be taken in this case 
to pack the soil solidly together as there is danger 
of the plaster bursting from the heavy pressure of 
the water. Lilies should not be planted in the tank 
for a few days while the water is strong of cement. 
The construction of PONDS is less intricate. If 
the water supply is to be from the surrounding hill- 
sides, from springs or streams, the lowest part of 
the ground is generally the most suitable place. If 
the pond is to be made by building a dam across a 
stream, due preparation should be taken against 
freshets by making the basin on one side of the 
