146 
PARK AND CEMETERY. 
SHRUB PROPAGATION and WINTER CARE of CUTTINGS 
Address Before the Nashville Convention of Railzvay Gardening Association, 
by F. C. Stark, Gardener, Pennsylvania Lines West, Pittsburgh, > Pa- 
On this branch of horticulture and the 
manifold operations in propagating many 
columns could be written and the subject 
not described thoroughly, so I will con- 
fine my paper to the more simple and eco- 
nomical systems suitable to the small com- 
mercial grower, the railroad and home 
gardeners. 
The modes of propagation as described 
herein may not in every instance be the 
best known to others but are given, as they 
have proved best to the writer. There are 
many kinds of shrubs that are readily 
propagated of the ripe or mature wood 
several years old, but with the majority, 
wood of one season’s growth produces 
roots the more readily. The cuttings are 
taken in the fall of the year as soon as 
the leaves of the plants will part from the 
stems without injury to the buds and gen- 
eral construction of the same. Cuttings of 
the willow, tamarix or currant and many 
of the woody plants grow freely at almost 
any time of the year, while it would be 
difficult under the most favorable condi- 
tions to root hickory. To root cuttings 
requires time and to insure growth ample 
time must be allowed for formation of root 
and callous matter to take place. Conse- 
quently cuttings of the mature and dor- 
mant wood are usually made late in the 
autumn. By doing this the propagator 
secures several months in which to secure 
the root growth. Cuttings made in the 
fall should either be planted where they 
are to be grGwn, giving plenty of protec- 
tion, or can be buried in any location 
where the temperature can be held slightly 
above freezing although not warm enough 
to force them into growth. In such situa- 
tions the process of rooting will go on and 
should be well supplied with roots by the 
time the regular season of active vegeta- 
tion commences in the spring, so that a 
vigorous early growth of stem will be pro- 
duced. 
In warmer climates it is just as impor- 
tant to give the cuttings plenty of time to 
form roots or the advance process called 
callous as in the cold climates. For if the 
roots are not formed when the leaves ex- 
pand the cutting is likely to die. Cuttings 
that are moved from their winter quarters 
have to be handled with care, especially 
when calloused and young roots have 
started to push out. Avoid drying winds, 
rough handling or long exposure to air 
even if under shades. These are causes 
which will surely check further process 
toward growth. Keep them moist with 
occasional sprinkling. Success in growing 
cuttings often depends on texture of soils. 
The soil should be deeply worked, free 
from stones and decaying vegetable matter, 
should be of a porous nature, and com- 
posed of materials which absorb and re- 
tain sufficient moisture. In southern, dry 
and warm climates more powerful absorb- 
ents are required than in the cooler north- 
ern latitudes'. Such hindrances can be 
eliminated by mulching the surface with 
coarse hay, straw, spent hops or tan bark. 
These tend to keep the soil moist and of an 
equal temperature. 
Cuttings should always be severed just 
below a bud, exposing the wood where 
roots appear most freely. In this line 
catalpas, willows and common quince and 
many others form roots almost anywhere 
on the stem. Hollow stemmed plants 
such as Deutzias, Philadelphus, etc., have 
large piths and the orifice is nearly or 
entirely closed. In cutting such plants 
they should be severed on a slant, exposing 
the cavity above and below the bud. This 
allows unabsorbed juices or water to drain 
away or to be absorbed in the soil. This is 
done to prevent the cutting from rotting or 
partial decay. The proper length will vary 
somewhat according to the character of 
the plant from which they: are to be taken ; 
from 4 to 9 inches in most cases is suffi- 
cient. Planting cuttings too deep should 
be avoided, as the further from the sur- 
face the less solar heat they receive. This 
is quite important to insure rapid growth. 
Especially after they are well rooted, the 
surface of the cutting bed should be level, 
free from stones and should be raked 
smooth. The cuttings should be planted 
in a perpendicular position in the trenches 
from 2 to 6 inches apart, depending of 
course on size and character of plant. The 
upper end should be an inch or two above 
the surface of the soil. Then draw in a 
little soil and press firmly around the base 
and then fill the trench level. Firming the 
soil around the lower end of the cutting is 
very essential and in a good many in- 
stances is the whole secret of success in 
the growing of cuttings. The distance be- 
tween the rows should be wide enough to 
work with the hoe and wider if they are 
to be worked with the cultivator. 
This mode of propagating can be em- 
ployed with the majority of shrubs used 
in gardening of the present day, Vibur- 
nums, Hydrangeas, Tamarix, Philadelphus, 
Loniceras, Altheas, Barberry, Sambucus, 
Quince, Primus, Spireas, Deutzias, Lilacs 
and a hundred other varieties. 
When propagating with soft immature 
growth customs differ, as here we handle 
an active growth under changed climatic 
conditions under advanced season of time. 
Before the rooting and further advance of 
growth in the cutting of immature struc- 
ture and conditional development must be 
assisted, necessarily by resorting to artifi- 
cial means, thereby accelerating the change. 
The growing parts of the plants are now 
in a state of transmutation, cell matter 
forming over into outward maturity. To 
continue this change is to surround the 
cutting with a warm moist atmosphere, so 
that the exhalation can be controlled. By 
exposure to cold air such is impossible. 
Therefore some means must be provided 
to give this protection, such as properly 
constructed cold frames or earth houses. 
This mode of propaganda must be done 
under glass. Overheating in extremely hot 
weather can be controlled by shading with 
wooden shading frames. In cloudy weather 
these can be removed and sufficient light 
be allowed, but not long enough to cause 
injury or to render the cuttings into a 
wilting condition. Direct sun rays are the 
essential factor which stimulate the cellu- 
lar action, assimilation of unorganized s b- 
stances, atmospheric or geological, yet can- 
not be given as they are to rooted plants 
under natural growing conditions. There- 
fore shading with lattice frames, should be 
given the preference over lime or other 
washes. 
Soft cuttings should be rooted in pure 
sand or some soil of a very sandy texture 
in preference to any other kind. In fact 
sand is the only known material to secure 
a healthy growth. It stimulates the tend- i 
ency for the formation of fibrous roots in 
abundance. This fact is well known among 
all florists and nurserymen. Arrangements 
for ventilating the house or cold frames 
should be provided from the top or peak 
of the roof. Care should be taken to keep 
the temperature at a safe point, as too 
much heat will check the advancement of I 
growth in the cuttings. 
Make your cuttings carefully. A sharp 
knife should be used, as the cuts should be 
smooth. This enables the grower to elimi- 
nate failure to a very great extent. This 
means of propagating can be resorted to 
with the majority of plants, yet from the 
economical standpoint it is easier to 
multiply the raising of many varieties of 
shrubs by seed. To go into the many other 
processes would require too much time; to 
describe the many other methods of pro- 
pagating as by layer, which is employed in 
rare plants; propagation by root cutting; 
propagation by division, widely used with 
perennials; propagation by budding as is 
done with ornamental and shade trees; 
and finally the many modes of grafting, 
the latter very little used any more ex- 
cept on stacks as base for ornamental 
shade trees, as in nearly all forms of wil- 
low, ash, elm, mulberry and many more, i 
