PARK AND CEMETERY. 
179 
placed two umbrella displays. The 
fountain uses 23,000 gallons of wa- 
ter per hour, but by means of a 
centrifugal pump the same water is 
used over and over again, the renew- 
al and evaporation waste being from 
the umbrella displays which are con- 
nected directly with the city water 
main. The fountain is operated from 
beneath by means of control valves, 
connecting with the various nozzles 
through which the water displays are 
effected. The operating chamber re- 
sembles a power house, although the 
operation of the fountain is very sim- 
ple. Five arc lights are used to pro- 
ject the light rays upon the water and 
each of these has seven colored 
screens, making thirty-five possible 
combinations of water display. 
This fountain was erected by Fred- 
eric W. Darlington, of Philadelphia, 
who has placed similar but larger 
fountains in the Crystal Palace of 
London, the City of Mexico, and in 
WAITE MEMORIAL FOUNTAIN AND 
ITS SETTING, SALEM, ORE. 
the City Park of Denver. This style 
of fountain can be made in various 
sizes to suit large or small parks. 
When they are placed in parks, prob- 
ably the best setting for them is with- 
in a lake, as they show off to the best 
advantage from a short distance. 
The fountain in Salem is a good 
example of concrete construction, the 
outer walls being of concrete tinted 
a light yellow color. No attempt is 
made for a changing water display 
during the daytime. The operator 
starts a certain water display each 
day and leaves it on for as long as 
may be desired. 
The photographs of this fountain 
show only a few of the possible water 
combinations. They were made at 
night with an exposure of about one 
minute. The cost of the fountain was 
approximately ten thousand dollars, 
this amount being left for such pur- 
pose by Mrs. E. M. Waite, as a me- 
morial to her husband. 
THE PROPAGATION OF HARDY PERENNIALS 
A Paper by F. W. Vick, of the Vick & Hill Co., Rochester, 
N. Y. 
As you all know, most perennials 
are easily raised from seed, and in* 
most cases reproduce themselves true 
to name and variety. When grown 
in this manner, seed may be sown 
in Spring, Summer or Fall, but we 
prefer to sow from March 1 to April 
15, and under glass. Sow the seed 
thinly and broadcast in flats, and cov- 
er lightly with fine soil or sand. By 
sowing the seed thinly in the flats, 
the seedings will not require prick- 
ing off, and the flats can be set out 
of doors under sash in a coldframe. 
As the seedlings become hardened 
the sash may be removed. The young 
seedlings can remain outdoors until 
you have time to pot them; we pot 
in June, using 2 and 2% in. pots. 
In July we plant in nursery rows 
in the field. Few only of these seed- 
lings will bloom the first year, but 
they make grand blooming stock the 
second season. 
Seed of Perennial Phlox should 
be sown in the Fall as soon as ripe. 
Sow in a bed, or rows in the open 
ground. In the Spring the seedlings 
may be potted or transplanted, and 
they make strong growth and bloom 
freely the first year from seed. 
Hollyhock seed is best sown in the 
open ground, either thinly broadcast 
or drilled in. We prefer May or June 
for sowing this seed. 
If not convenient to sow perennial 
Read Before the Rochester Florists Ass< 
seed . under glass in the Spring, it 
can b«r, s ,sp ; wn outdoors at any time,, 
preferably during June, July, or Au- 
gust.' Outdoors the seeds germinate 
very quickly, and you can get fine 
stock by Fall, by sowing seed during 
these months. 
As soon as ready to handle, the 
seedlings should be transplanted, for 
if you leave them too long in the 
seed bed and they get crowded for 
room they generally damp off, and 
if they once commence damping off 
it is a hard matter to save them. 
After transplanting, the seedlings 
generally Winter splendidly if given 
a covering of boughs or coarse lit- 
ter, and can be planted in their per- 
manent flowering quarters the follow- 
ing Spring. 
Propagation by Root Cuttings. 
Many perennials are rapidly in- 
creased by root cuttings. This mode 
of propagation of hardy plants is 
seldom used by propagators, except 
in the case of the Japanese Anem- 
ones; but there are many other hardy 
plants that can be propagated in this 
way. 
Take good live roots and cut them 
into pieces about 1J4 in. long. Use 
flats filled with potting soil and scat- 
ter the roots rather thickly over the 
surface, and cover with % to J4 in. of 
rather fine soil. The flats may be 
placed in a cool house. These root 
cuttings will soon form buds and 
quickly start into growth. Do not 
grow them in a warm house, as the 
young plants will become drawn and 
weak if grown in too high a tem- 
perature. Most plants grown from 
root cuttings may be potted in from 
6 to 8 weeks from the time the roots 
are put in. 
The following hardy plants can 
easily be propagated in this way. 
Achillea The Peal, Japanese Anem- 
ones, Polygonums, Euphorbia cor- 
cillata, Plumbago Larpentae, Sapon- 
arias, Coronilla varia. 
Then there are some perennials 
that can be increased from root cut- 
tings but do not succeed when the 
roots are covered with soil, as do 
those in the preceding list, they 
should be dibbled into the soil, in 
flats. The roots should be cut into 
pieces V/ 2 to 2 in. long, and each 
piece dibbled in, in rows, the upper 
end of a root slightly above the sur- 
face of the soil. The dormant buds 
or eyes at the tops of the root cut- 
tings will start into growth and you 
will soon have nice plants for pot- 
ting. There are many perennials that 
may be increased in this manner, 
among them Stokesia Cyanea, Boc- 
conia cordata, Monardas, Perennial 
Phlox of the decussata type, Gaillardia 
grandiflora, Dodecatheon, Thermopsis, 
