261 
PARK AND CEMETERY. 
oped during the next season a vigorous 
growth of fibrous fleshy roots, all feeding 
compactly within the small circles- 
Early in the winter the soil about each 
tree was encircled with another trench — 
a foot or more beyond the trench first cut 
out, leaving a ball of earth six to eight 
feet across the top and about three feet in 
depth. This ball, containing a compact 
mass of young vigorous root growth, was 
allowed to freeze three or four days, so 
that it might be moved by means of blocks 
and tackle without danger of breaking, 
then hoisted on a stone drag and placed at 
an angle of 30 to 45 degrees, because a 
HOW THE! OAKS WERE TRANSPORTED IN BOSTON PARKS. 
HOLES MADE TO RECEIVE THE OAKS IN BOSTON PARK. 
number of bridges and trolley wires had to 
be passed. 
The holes were ready at the boulevard to 
receive the trees, and after being properly 
placed and lined up the soft, fresh loam 
was carefully packed about the large Dali 
of earth so that no air spaces should be left 
and to prevent settlement of the tree when 
the frost should leave the ground. 
The trees have been strong and healthy 
and there is every ' indication that the 
work has been permanently successful in 
every respect. Oaks have frequently been 
transplanted in the Boston parks in this 
manner, and the general belief that these 
fine street trees cannot be transplanted 
seems to have been substantially disproven. 
Another interesting method of moving 
large trees in winter is that employed by 
Alexander Klockner, of Wauwatosa, Wis., 
who has successfully moved many large 
trees by the use of the same apparatus and 
methods as commonly employed in house- 
moving. He has successfully moved trees 
which, with their accompanying balls of 
earth, weighed from twenty to forty-four 
tons. 
In this operation he first dug a trench 
about the tree and raised it with jack- 
screws and three-foot blocks about six feet 
from the earth. Then six-inch rollers on 
timbers fourteen inches square were placed 
under the ball of earth, and the screws 
removed. The massive load was moved 
by horses, working through blocks and 
chains, going forward at the rate of from 
200 to 400 feet in a day. Our illustrations 
show two different stages of the work in 
the moving of a 44-ton Norway spruce and 
a 37-ton elm. 
MEASURING THE HEIGHT OF 
TREES 
If a tree is on open, level ground, the 
easiest way to ascertain its height is to 
measure the length of the shadow cast 
by the tree. At the same time measure 
the length of your own shadow. Then 
divide the length of the tree’s shadow by 
the length of your own shadow, and multi- 
ply by your actual height. The result will 
be the height of the tree. 
As very tall trees are seldom found in 
open, level ground, another method may be 
adopted. Find a spot some distance from 
the tree, and on the same leved as the 
ground on which the tree stands. Set up 
on the spot a pole thirty feet out of the 
ground and perfectly still, keeping on the 
same level, until upright. Then walk 
farther hack till your line of sight touches 
the top of the pole and the top of the tree, 
and drive a peg where you are standing. 
Now measure the distance from the center 
of the bole of the tree to the pole, and to 
the peg. Multiply the distance from the 
peg to the tree by twenty-five, and divide 
by the distance from the peg to the pole. 
To the result add five feet, and you will 
have the height of the tree. 
The above methods are given in the 
Rural Californian. A writer in the Country 
Gentleman has used the following approxi- 
mate scheme, which was learned from a 
well-known firm of big-tree movers. In 
this case, the tree must be by itself, so 
that one can get a full view of it from a 
distance of thirty or fifty feet. Choose a 
spot on the trunk of the tree which is a 
known distance from the ground (say four 
or five feet, gauged by the height of your 
shoulder, nose or head) ; then walk back- 
ward until you have a good view of the 
whole tree, and pull down the vizor or 
brim of your hat until your line of sight 
is on a level with the chosen mark on the 
tree trunk. Now take a lead pencil, hold 
it in line with the mark, and without mov- 
ing the pencil slowly raise your head until 
the distance between the brim of your hat 
and the pencil appears to be equal to the 
space between the pencil and the ground. 
Then bring the pencil up level with your 
hat brim and raise your head once more 
until the distances from hat brim to pencil 
and from pencil to ground are equal. Con- 
tinue this to the top of the tree. 
To find the height of a tree, let us as- 
sume five feet to have been the height of 
the mark on the tree trunk from the 
ground. Raising your hat an equal dis- 
tance would have made ten feet, and an- 
other raise would have added ten feet 
more, or twenty feet; from that point, 
suppose the top of the tree appeared lo be 
about seven feet, then the approximate 
height of the tree would be about twenty- 
seven feet. With a good eye for distances 
and a little practice, you will soon be able 
to do rapid and fairly accurate work. 
