300 
PARK AND CEMETERY. 
weapons used by the farmer were an old 
tin pan and a shingle. Armed with these 
he would walk along the rows and labori- 
ously kno^k the offending beetles and slugs 
into the pan, and when a sufficient num- 
ber were gathered they were treated with 
a dose of kerosene and then cremated, or 
else they were buried alive — much to their 
own comfort and enjoyment. Even in re- 
cent days, after all that has been written 
regarding the tripeta or railroad worm of 
the apple, the question has often appeared, 
“Why not plow a furrow, rake the apples 
in and bury them?” Such ignorance is not 
excusable at the present time, as our ex- 
periment stations, state departments and 
federal government have all contributed 
reports, bulletins and leaflets on this sub- 
ject. For many years Paris green was the 
panacea to sound the death knell for in- 
sect slaughter, but since the dreaded gypsy 
and browntail have caused such wholesale 
destruction of all forms of vegetation, and 
the San Jose scale has become so preva- 
lent in the East, other and more effective 
remedies are imperative. Lime-sulphur for 
the scale and lead arsenate for all leaf- 
eating insects were recognized at an op- 
portune time, and are the leading insecti- 
cides of the present. 
PREPARATION OF SPRAY MIXTURES 
Formulas of Michigan Agricultural Ex periment Station. 
Strong Lime-Sulphur. 
Strong lime-sulphur to be used on dor- 
mant trees or bushes for scale insects can 
be prepared in three ways : 
By the old formula. 
By reducing with water “the home- 
made” concentrated wash. 
By reducing with water the “commer- 
cial” concentrated wash. 
The “old formula” has been used for 
many years with good results and is very 
satisfactory. The formula is as follows : 
Lump lime 20 lbs. 
Sulphur (flour) 15 lbs. 
Water (hot) to make.... 50 gals. 
The lime is slaked with a small amount 
of water (hot if lime is sluggish) and the 
sulphur is added, fifteen or twenty gallons 
of water are then added, and the mixture 
boiled. (It should take three-quarters of 
an hour or an hour of good boiling with 
frequent stirring.) When done the liquid 
should be amber colored and fairly clear. 
Strain, dilute with water (hot is prefer- 
able) to make (up to) 50 gallons, and ap- 
ply warm, through a coarse nozzle. 
If small quantities are required, use an 
iron kettle to boil it in. If larger quan- 
tities are to be used, live steam is prefer- 
able for boiling purposes, either in a tank 
or in barrels. 
Applied just before the buds swell, it 
coats the branches in such a way as par- 
tially to hinder from settling down such 
pests as the oyster-shell, scurfy scale, some 
aphids, and other insects. 
Home-Made Concentrated Lime-Sulphur 
Wash. 
Growers having cooking plants can make 
the lime-sulphur wash in a “concentrated” 
solution. This may be an economy of time, 
as large quantities can be made early in 
the season and stored until needed. 
It is difficult to make this wash of uni- 
form strength. For this reason every 
batch that is made must be tested with a 
hydrometer and diluted accordingly. 
The difficulty of getting a solution of 
uniform strength, apparently, depends on 
the lime, which varies in composition and 
strength. Lime that contains more than 
5 per cent of magnesium oxide and less 
than 90 per cent of calcium oxide does 
not combine in the cooking with the sul- 
phur in a way to make a good mixture. 
Special “spraying lime” is now on the 
market. 
There are several ways of combining the 
lime and sulphur, but always there are two 
parts, by weight, of sulphur to one of 
stone lime. The following three formulas 
are in common use : 
Stone lime 75 lbs. ] ( 60 lbs. ] f 40 lbs. 
Sulphur 150 lbs. }- or -j 120 lbs. or j 80 lbs. 
Water 50 gal. J [ 50 gal. J [50 gal. 
The lime is slaked to a thin paste and 
the sulphur is added. Boil for one hour 
and stir frequently. Water enough should 
be added so that there will be fifty gal- 
ons at the 'end of the boiling. 
After it is cooked, if not to be used at 
once, it should be strained into a barrel 
which should be air tight, as exposure to 
the air causes the sulphur compounds to 
lose their value for spraying purposes. 
Each lot that is cooked should be tested 
with a hydrometer when cooled and di- 
luted according to the dilution table when 
applied. 
Commercial Concentrated Lime-Sulphur 
Wash. 
There are several brands of the “com- 
mercial” concentrated lime-sulphur solu- 
tion now upon the market. The .use of 
these instead of the home cooked kinds 
is becoming more and more common every 
year, especially by fruit growers who do 
not care to take the time or trouble to 
cook the material for themselves or if they 
do not have good facilities to do so. 
They are now reasonable in price, of 
fairly uniform strength, and do add to the 
ease of getting ready to spray, as all that 
is necessary is to dilute with the required 
quantity of water. 
Self-Boiled Lime Sulphur Mixture. 
This is a mixture of lime, sulphur and 
water and not like any of the other lime- 
sulphur sprays. It does not (when prop- 
erly made) injure tender foliage and is 
very valuable for spraying peaches and 
Japanese plums. The formula is: 
Lump lime 8 lbs. 
Sulphur 8 lbs. 
Water 50 gals. 
The mixture can be prepared better by 
using 32 pounds of lime, 32 pounds of sul- 
phur and 8 or 10 gallons of water, and 
then diluting to 200 gallons. 
Place the lime in a barrel and add 
enough water to almost cover it ; as soon 
as the slaking begins, add the sulphur, 
which should be run through a sieve to 
break up the lumps. 
Stir constantly and add enough water to 
make a thick paste and then, gradually, a 
thin paste. As soon as the lime is well 
slaked, cold water should be added to cool 
the mixture and prevent further cooking. 
It is then ready to be strained into the 
spray tank, diluted up to the full formula, 
and used. 
Care must be taken not to allow the boil- 
ing to proceed too far; if the mixture re- 
mains hot for fifteen or twenty minutes 
after the slaking is completed, some sul- 
phur will go into solution and injury to 
the foliage may result. 
The time of adding the cold water to 
stop the boiling depends upon the lime. 
With a sluggish lime all the heat in it may 
be needed, while with limes that become 
intensely hot, care must be taken not to 
allow the boiling to proceed too far. 
Bordeaux Mixture. 
Bordeaux mixture is made of copper 
sulphate, lime and water. 
These three substances are combined in 
various proportions, depending upon the 
kind of plant to be treated. For apples, 
pears, cherries and plums (except the Jap- 
anese varieties) the preparation is usually 
four pounds of copper sulphate, with about 
the same amount of lime, to fifty gallons 
of water. Poison is added as needed. The 
copper sulphate will readily dissolve in' two 
gallons of hot water, to which should be 
added enough water to make twenty-five 
gallons, or one-half barrel. Do not use 
an iron or tin vessel to dissolve this in, 
as the copper sulphate will destroy it, and 
besides the iron will spoil the Bordeaux. 
A wooden pail is good. Slake the lime 
into a thin paste and add water to make 
twenty-five gallons. Pour, or let these run 
together into a third barrel, and the Bor- 
deaux is made. When it is emptied into 
