I 
PARK AND CEMETERY. 183 
Avenues of Trees, 
I Shall avenues or roadways be lined 
ii with trees all of one kind, or shall they be 
I mixed? This is a question that must be 
largely settled by individual preference, 
, although doubtless most persons will pre- 
fer the grandeur produced by an over- 
! topping row of one kind of tree. Can 
anything surpass the rows of large old 
elms seen in some of our New England 
cities? 1 have seen, too, magnificent 
avenues of silver maple, which well- cared 
for, somewhat resemble the elms in their 
general effect. In Fairmount Park, 
Philadelphia, there is an avenue planted 
with pin oaks. They have reached fair 
proportions already, but are still compar- 
atively young. Their best effect is yet to 
come. In selecting like trees for a drive- 
way, one should be careful to judge of the 
result after the trees have developed. 
Norway maples leading up to a residence 
on a hill may be grand trees individually, 
but are likely to have a “squatty” appear- 
ance — to use an expressive, common term. 
Along a level strip this will be entirely 
different. Mixed trees are very satisfac- 
tory if their growths are in a considerable 
degree similar, ranging in general height 
from 30 to 50 feet. Take, for instance, 
the sugar maple, American ash, red oak, 
tulip tree, and American linden, with 
, possibly silver maple and American elm 
! added; or say, American horse chestnut, 
' sweet gum, Magnolia acuminata, scarlet 
and pin oaks and salisburia. A group of 
, smaller round-headed trees would include 
1 Norway maple, English ash, Turkey 
I and English oaks, white-leaved linden, 
ash-leaved maple, and Western Catalpa. 
— S. Mendehon Meehan in Florists' Ex- 
change. 
* * 
Labels for Trees. 
It is a matter of great importance, al- 
though withal more marked in the “breach 
' than the observance,” to have the differ- 
ent varietiesof plantsand trees, whether in 
park, cemetery, farm or home grounds, 
properly labeled. In this connection the 
Sonihern Florist draws attention as fol- 
lows; The question with many growers is. 
What is the best label? Prof. L. H. Bailey 
describes a label which is used on the 
grounds at Cornell University that seems 
to be almost everything that could be 
desired. It consists of the ordinary paint- 
ed pine label bought by nursery men and 
florists, and which is six inches long and 
one and one-half inches wide. The labels 
may be purchased for $1.30 per thousand. 
Strong galvanized wire is secure to one 
end of the label, and if the trees are large 
the wire should be eighteen inches long. 
After the wires have been placed write the 
name of the tree with a soft pencil upon 
the label, then dip the label in white lead 
well thinned with oil. The paint partially 
obscures the name at first, but it soon 
appears bright and pencil marks are indeli- 
bly preserved. If heavy wire is used the 
labels cannot be removed without a pair 
of pinchers. 
« ^ 
Transplanting Roses. 
The natural season for transplanting 
roses is the spring, though with due pre- 
caution, they may be safely handled in the 
early fall. Some are more susceptible to 
cold than others; and all object seriously 
to careless treatment. Most young roses 
are scantily rooted, which necessitates a 
severe pruning of the tops in transplanting. 
Three or four inches of healthy young 
growth is all-sufficient to leave. The 
wood shrivels and weakens if the roots be 
exposed very long, hence when received 
from the nursery they should be at once 
planted out or heeled in. Some roses are 
budded or grafted on a strong-growing 
stock: while others are on own roots. The 
former require watching to prevent sucker- 
ing from the stock, which soon robs the 
plant of its vitality. To lessen the effect 
of such a contingency, it is wise to set the 
plant deep enough that the junction of 
the graft or budded portion may be cover- 
ed, that it may be allowed to throw out 
roots for its own support Manetti, Dog, 
and Multiflora roses are the most common 
stocks, and may be usually readily distin- 
guished from the cion. At times, buds 
will be present on the stock. If they be 
rubbed off before the plant is set, im- 
mediate sprouting will be prevented. 
With most roses, particularly the hybrid 
remontant varieties, a deep, rich soil is 
requisite for good results. Roses planted 
in sod will prove failures. Make a bed 
for them, dug two or three feet deep and 
made rich with manure — cow manure is 
excellent. Do all that is possible to encour- 
age a strong heavy growth, and to this end 
let the bed be located in the full sunlight, 
away from large trees. The hardy, com- 
mon roses are perhaps less particular, 
though they show appreciation for care. 
The beautiful trailing rose, Wichuraiana, 
is adapted for almost any situation, on 
margin of beds, on banks and rockeries, 
or can be trained to a trellis or stake. 
The abundance of pretty flowers which it 
presents calls forth the following remark 
from an ardent lover of gardening: “1 
welcome the hybrids of Wichuraiana. I 
have a bed, 12 feet in diameter, of the 
type, that takes ten years off the age of 
any man each time he looks at it.” — Mee- 
hans' Monthly for October 
* * » 
Lobelias for Stock. 
Though good plants may be obtained 
from seed, this method of propagation is 
not altogether reliable, and it is advisable 
to rely on cuttings for the next season’s 
supply. To do this it is a good plan to 
grow a few plants in pots during the sum- 
mer, as these keep through the winter 
better than if lifted from the beds. When 
it is necessary to resort to the latter means 
some care is necessary owing to the ten- 
dency of lifted plants to damp off during 
the winter. It may not be generally 
known that a good way of obviating this 
evil is to select a number of plants for 
stock and to go over them a short time 
before lifting and cut off the tops. When 
the plants again break into growth they 
should be lifted and potted. Treated in 
this way they invariably keep through 
the winter without difficulty. — The Gar- 
den, London. 
* * » 
Wild Flowers for the Garden. 
When planting for the early flower 
garden do not forget the wild flowers. 
Select a moist, shady spot, remove suffl- 
ceint earth and fill in with carefully select 
ed leaf mold from the forest. Fringe the 
bed with pretty maidenhair and other, 
small ferns, fill it with the spring features, 
anemone, wild hepatica and violets. 
The spring is the best time to make a 
wild flower bed but as the plants are 
more hardy than cultivated ones, little 
difficulty will be experienced in their safe 
removal at any time if taken up with a 
ball of earth adhering and kept well 
watered and shaded. — The Minnesota 
Horticulturist. 
•» ■» # 
The Hyacinth. 
For more than a century, from 1559 to 
1680, the tulip had an undisputed reign till 
a rival appeared in the shape of a double 
hyacinth. Rea says of the “hyacinth, or ja- , 
cinth;” It is “of divers sorts and many of 
them of small esteem.” Some double varie- 
ties were, however, known at that time, 
three being mentioned by Bauhin, but the 
double kind from which modern ones have 
been derived was raised at the end of the 
seventeenth century by Peter Voorhelm,a 
celebrated Dutch florist. The hyacinth was 
never quite such a rage as the tulip, though 
during the height of its popularity great 
prices were paid for bulbs in Holland. It is 
said as much as 2,000 florins, or about £ 1 50, 
was given for one root by some enthusiastic 
Dutch collector. — Longman's Magazine. 
