PARK AND CEMETERY 
243 
SELECTED NOTES AND EXTRACTS. 
Scotch Heather in America. 
lu connection with this subject a note 
on whicli was !j;iveii in our last, Mr. 
Joseph Meehan, in the Florists' Ex- 
chantje, gives his opinion; There is no 
reason to doubt that the heather is well 
adapted to the greater part of our coun- 
try. I have not the authorities b}- me 
but am sure it is reported in a semi-wild 
state in the vicinity of Boston, and also 
at E,gg Harbor Cit}', New Jersey. It has 
been under my personal observation here 
for over twenty )ears and in all that 
time has stood all kinds of weather in all 
seasons, uninjured, and it is growing in 
shallow, stony soil. The plant is not 
onl}' native of England and Scotland, 
but of the whole of Northern Europe, as 
Mr. Kelsey says; and its home is in bleak 
and barren jdaces. It has been at home 
in Philadelphia for 30 years, as have 
been two Ericas — vagacs and stricta. 
,\11 ericaceons plants have fine, hair-like 
roots, and in common with all plants 
with roots of similar character delight in 
light soil. They are well suited in soil 
containing many small stones, and of a 
sandy nature. The stmes keep the soil 
open, which is what the roots desire. 
Such soils are often poor. Because of 
this it is inferred by many that the plants 
referred to do not care for better soil, 
but this is a mistake. The roots are 
suited in such situations, but the plants 
will show a marked improvement in 
growth if a mulching of good soil be 
given them. 
Hedges of Flowering Shrubs, 
For a handsome hedge The Garden, 
of London, advocates the planting of 
hardy flowering shrubs, about four feet 
apart and so trained and trimmed that 
they grow into a compact hedge and yet 
have enough lateral play to allow them 
to flower. Such a hedge is not only 
ornamental but it yields endless material 
for cutting. It should be allowed to 
grow quite four feet thick and is best 
formed with a backbone of stiff woody 
shrubs, such as Guelder roses, Ribes and 
Lilac, while between the stiffer shrubs 
might be some that are weaker, such as 
Kerria, Rhodotypus and Laycesteria. 
Plants of rank, rambling growth such as 
the free roses and doubled flowered 
Brambles, Aristolochia, Wistaria, Vir- 
ginia Creeper and the rambling Honey 
Suckles are not in place in such a he Ige, 
they are more suitable for rough hedge- 
banks, walls, or for arbor and pergola; 
the flower hedge wants true shrubs. The 
bush honey suckles, such as Lonicera 
fragrantissima and L. lartarica are ju.st 
right, or any woody, twiggy bushes either 
of moderate growth or such as Deutzia 
and Snowberry, shrubs that so often get 
overgrown in a shrubbery. In the hedge 
these would do well, as they could ea.sily 
be w'atched and thinned, also any of the 
many true shrubs that flower all the bet- 
ter for reasonable pruning. 
* * * 
Planting for Fall Effects. 
Mr. W. C. Plgan waiting in Gardeni> g, 
says: We should plant for fall effect as 
well as for spring and summer. Tbe 
plantings for both spring and fall effects 
may be made together, as the flowers of 
spring may produce the berries of fall. 
On large estates, where extended views 
are available, a fine effect of fall coloring 
may be produced by sumachs alone. The 
dwarf, .smooth Rhus glabr.i is the first to 
lose its leaves. It colors a deep red, in- 
clined to maroon as it fades, and is not 
effective at close view. Then comes the 
stag-horn sumach, Rhus typhina, so eas- 
ily distinguished by the woody appear- 
ance of its new growth. This has con- 
siderable yellow in its coloring and is 
pleasing when viewed from any distance. 
The cut-leaved form of this is especially 
attractive in its fall coloring and a great 
improvement at all seasons over the cut- 
leaved form of R. glabra generally grown. 
We must not forget Rhus aroniatica, 
more dwarf than the preceding, good in 
its coloring and persistent in its foliage. 
The Clematis. 
To set out a clematis requires time and 
patience. The roots must be spread out 
evenh- and care taken to cover each root 
as though it was the only root it had. 
Earth must touch the root on all sides, 
particularly at the terminals. To wind up 
the roots into a ball or switch and cover 
them up is murder. 
A very important matter is that of pro- 
viding good, firm trellises for clematises, 
particularly for lire young, brittle- 
stemmed plants. A bend or switch by 
wind, if it does not break the stem, very 
often cracks the outer bark and opens a 
way to various fungus diseases and per- 
haps insects. 
Clematises are frequently killed by a 
tiny worm making its way into the stem 
just below the ground. This has been 
particularly noticed in C. paniculata this 
last summer. A sure method of destroy- 
ing this insect, I believe has not been di.s- 
covered. 
I'or winter see that the soil is well 
drained, not surface drained, onlv, but 
under drained, so as to be aerated; also 
thatch the plants with straw to prevent 
the bark from dr3’ing out in the sun. 
The large flowered varieties are valua- 
ble for decorations if grown in jiots, ])ar- 
ticularl^' the 1 ivender tin'ed varieties 
with si.x to eight petals to the flower, but 
they are not easilv used if cut. 
I do not advise laying tbe clematis 
down because it is liable to crack the 
bark and there is no advantage to offset 
this danger. 
Clematis paniculata, white, and C. coc- 
cinea, scarlet, can be grown on strings 
verv easily for cutting. — C. B. Jl'. in 
Ihc American Florist. 
To Destroy Moles. 
A correspondent writes I0 'J'hc Country 
Gentleman for a remedy for the depreda- 
tions of moles in lawns, to which that 
journal replies as -follows: “If you do 
not find traps effectual, there are several 
other remedies that have at various times 
been tried with success, i. Soak a long- 
strip of brown paper in a mixture of finely 
ground red pepper and niter; when dry, 
ignite the strip and thrust it while burn- 
ing, into the burrow', the opening being 
closed. The fumes are very destructive 
to moles. 2. Make small piles of sweet 
corn, putting arsenic or stiychnine into 
the centre of them and dropping into the 
burrows. It is advisable if possible to 
handle these corn baits with a small 
bladed knife or pinchers that have been 
buried in the earth for a few hours, and 
not to touch the baits with the hands, as 
the mole is quick to scent a trap. It need 
not be said that it is inadvisable to use 
poison if there is a dog about the place to 
whom 3'ou don't wish ill." 
* ■*- * 
Lifting Gladiolus Bolts. 
So long as the leaves of the gladiolus 
continue green the bulbs are to remain 
undisturbed in the ground, the green 
leaves being an evidence that the prepar- 
ation of next summer’s blood is not com- 
pleted. The completion wdll be shown by 
the leaves turning vellow and dying, or, 
what amounts to the same thing, being 
killed b3' frost. In either case, when the 
leaves are dead, the bulbs are to be dug 
up, the top cut off about au inch above 
the bulb, and after drving a few da3 s in 
the shade the old bulb (w'hich has become 
worthle.s.s| is to be separated from the 
new one — more than one sometimes — 
which has formed above it and th own 
away. The new bulbs — the ones which 
formed above the old bulb — are then to 
be laid away safe from frost untd spring. 
— The North American Hortii ulturist . 
