20 
PARK AND CEMETERY 
of Rhododendrons and Kalmias on a commercial basis 
is a matter of fact, not experiment. 
Epigfeas and Gaultherias have also been collected 
but their transplanting and establishment is both diffi- 
cult and of treacherous reliability. The best success 
is obtained when these plants are collected in frozen 
clumps, and, after transplanting, if they are covered 
with straw or hay to a depth of one foot they thaw out 
gradually and pass through the ordeal in better shape. 
Hut both of these latter require partial shade for the 
best success, and during the tirst season after trans- 
planting they should be given additional shade to that 
afforded by tf e trees if the trees are not of wooded 
density. 
WATER LILIES AND OTHER AQUATIC PLANTS UI , 
On page 249 of the last issue is given a list of 
twelve Nymphseas, standard varieties for an artificial 
pond, which will prove excellent for ihe purpose, but as 
there are water lilies and water lilies, 1 append -here a 
list of twelve choice varieties, which growers who have 
already succeeded in their venture, may handle just as 
readily, and with certainty of success, as with those be- 
fore recommended, or any of them. These have all 
been thoroughly tested and proved to be of exceptional 
merit, and are recommended for their rare, exquisite 
and unique colors, large flowers, profusion and length of 
flowering season. 
Hardy: Nymphaea Gladsioniana, white; N. Chro- 
matella, yellow; N. Marliacea rosea, rose; N. rubra 
punctata, rosy purple; N. I.aydekeri purpurea, wine 
red; N. Robinsoni, orange red. 
Tender: Nymphaea O’Marana, rosy red; N. George 
Huster, crimson; N. rubra rosea, carmine; N. gracilis, 
white; N. Wm. .Stone, blue; N. Pulcherrima, blue. 
These, as well as the former, may De planted in natural 
ponds or artificial ponds with natural soil bottom. 
The following hardy varieties will be found most 
desirable for natural ponds, or for naturalizing in large 
ponds or lakes: Nymphaea odorata gigantea, white; N. 
O. maxima, white; N. O. rosea, pink; N. O. Luciana, 
rosy carmine; N. O. Caroliniana, clear pink; N. O. sul- 
phurea, yellow; N. tuberosa Richardsoni, white; N. T. 
rosea, pink. 
The following lists embrace twelve of the best hardy 
and tender varieties: 
Hardy: Nymphaea Chromatella, yellow; N. Glad- 
stoniana, white; N. Marliacea, rose; N. Laydekeri pur- 
purea, wine red; N. Odorata Caroliniana, pink; N. O. 
exquisita, carmine; N. O. Luciana, rosy carmine; N. 
Robinsoni, orange red; N. rubra punctata, rosy purple; 
N. O. sulphurea, yellow; N. Laydekeri lilacea, lilac 
rose; N. tuberosa Richardsoni, white. 
Tender: N. C(e'ulea, light blue; N. denta'a, white; 
N. gracilis, while; N. Jubilee, white; N. O’Marana, 
rosy red; N. Geo. Huster, crimson; N. Pulcherrima, 
blue; N. rubra rosea, carmine; N. .Sturtevantii, rosy 
red; N. VVm. Stone, blue; N. Zanzibarensis, purple; 
N. Z. rosea, carmine. 
Among the Nelumbiums, the following are six of 
the choicest; N. Album Striatum, white and carmine; 
N. Kermesinum, pink; N. speciosum, rose; N. Shiroman, 
white (double); N. Pekinensis, rosy red; N. luleum, 
yellow. 
A number of cultivators still consider tnat great re- 
sults can be achieved by growing water lilies in tubs, 
and they are going to try that method. It is not un- 
common to hear of cases where the plants are grown 
in pails. 
This method of treatment — not culture — is very 
much like the Japanese nananized pine trees grown in 
pots, the object apparently being to see how small a 
tree can be grown and yet live. Give plants and trees 
a rational course of treatment and then see what a grand 
and noble specimen can be grown by assisting nature. 
If no other resource can be had, by all means grow 
them in tubs, but do not plant such varieties that pro- 
duce gigantic Mowers when grown in a pond, and thus 
save disappointment. For ordinary tubs, usually less 
than two feet in diameter, the following will be found 
most satisfactory: Nymphtea Pygmea, white; N. Hel- 
vola, yellow; N. Laydekeri rosea, light to dark rose; 
N. I,, purpurea, wine red; N. L. lilacea, lilac rose; N. 
Robinsoni, orange red; N. odorata minor, white; N. 
Mexicana, yellow; N. elegans, blue. N. Zanzibarer sis 
varieties are worth growing, they are such free flower- 
ing varieties, that in spite of the fact that the leaves 
will not keep within the limits of a tub, the flowers are 
so pleasing, as they are so constant; their color and 
rich fragrance always make them welcome. If Nelum- 
biums must be grown in tubs, get the largest tubs pro- 
curable; depth is not so important as width, therefore 
get hogsheads or wine barrels, these when cut in two 
will make excellent tubs for t’.ie purpose. 
There are other plants suitable for tub culture, 
namely. Water Hyacinth, V/ater Poppy, Fairy Water 
Lily, Water .Snowflake, Jussirea longifolia. Parrot’s 
Feather, Water Lettuce, Sagittarias in variety, Villarsia, 
various rushes and the sweet scented Aponogeton dis- 
tachyon. 
Victorias: The Royal Water Lilies must not 
be omitted wherever there is room for them to be 
grown. The best results are obtained from artificially 
heated ponds, but where this can not be dpne, good re- 
sults can be obtained by planting out towards the end 
of June when the weather is settled and warm. It is 
useless to plant in unheated ponds, especially in high 
altitudes, and where the nights are cool in summer. 
The Victorias are tropical plants and require real sum- 
mer weather, and although Victoria Trickeri succeeds 
well in a lower temperature than V. Regia, even this 
suffered last year in the Eas ern States, also in many 
mountainous districts where cold nights were experi- 
enced, although in the neighborhood of Washington 
self-sown seedlings attained large proportions, and pro- 
duced flowers in August. In sections as warm as 
Washington, and even Philadelphia, seed of Victoria 
Trickeri may be sown— where it is intended the plants 
should be grown — in April and May, and equally as 
good results can be secured as in Washington. 
IV. Tricker. 
, ( To be Continued . ) 
