40 
PARK AND CEMETERY. 
back, to produce new shoots, as the new ones 
must be looked to for flowers next season. Treat 
all the shrubs the same way as fast as the flowering 
is over, excepting the fall bloomers, which are to be 
pruned in winter. 
If the Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora be de- 
sired to bloom later than usual, transplant some 
quite late in the season and cut them back almost 
to the ground. The transplanting and pruning 
checks them, causing a late crop of flowers. Another 
way is to stop the young growth in June, by nip- 
ping off the ends of the new growth. The shoots 
which succeed will flower a good while after other 
plants are over. Florists do this, to get a late 
crop of flowers. 
Those who desire violets for next winter’s 
blooming in frames, should plant out a lot of young 
plants now. The runners of old plants are the best. 
A half shady place is preferred for the summers 
growth. Before freezing weather, plant them in a 
cold frame and if frost can be kept out flowers will 
be had about March and later. The single sorts 
seem preferred for odor. 
Crimson Rambler rose rarely flowers well the 
first season after planting. It needs to get a 
good root-hold first and to make a strong shoot or 
two. Better not look for flowers, but cut the plants 
well to the ground, that a good growth may be en- 
couraged. Then preserve a good length of new 
shoot for next year, and flowers will follow. It 
seems an extremely hardy rose. 
To get flowers from daffodils in the open ground, 
plant them in a warm sunny spot in the garden. 
When in a damp shady place they rarely flower, 
probably from the bulbs failing to ripen. 
Hyacinths, tulips and other bulbs which have 
flowered indoors may be planted out in some half 
wild place. They flower year after year, from new 
made bulbs, and though not as large heads as im- 
ported ones are very beautiful. The flowering of 
such bulbs before almost any other flowers makes 
them much appreciated. 
Tea and other everblooming roses, set out this 
spring and appearing indifferent to starting growth, 
should be cut back almost to the ground. Indeed 
without this reason many gardeners treat them this 
way, as it is the young growth that gives the flow- 
ers. On the contrary, hybrid perpetuals so treated 
give no flowers, as the flowers come from the shoots 
of the previous season. A moderate pruning back 
suffices for them. 
It is not too late to set out some perennials for 
late blooming, some hing to come the very last 
thing. For this purpose there are these; Japanese 
Anemones, Aster Tataricus, I lellantlius Maximi- 
Jiank Boltonia 1 itisr^nama, riunibago karpenta.- 
and others. Some of these are with us until frost, 
and all are beautiful. The Aster, Helianthus and 
Boltonia are fine for cutting for vases, the flowers 
being on long spikes. Good sized plants set in 
spring flower well the first year. 
For an oval bed of flowers the following plants 
combine nicely. For the centre Achyranthus Ver- 
schafifelti, next to this variegated Stevia, then Coleus 
Verschaffelti, and for the outside. Coleus Golden 
Bedder. Another such bed may be entirely filled 
wdth the variegated leaved i\butilon, edged with 
the dark leaved /Vealypha. 
A round bed may be wholly filled with a pink 
or a scarlet flowered geranium and edged with a 
variegated leaved one. Both coleus and geraniums 
are indispensable for bedding. 
If rhododendron and azalea beds can be formed 
w'here the sun will not strike them in the afternoon, 
the plants preserve their flowers a much longer 
time. In hot, dry times, the flowers fade in a few 
days, instead of lasting for a week or two as they 
will if in partial shade. 
When poeonies are in flower the colors should 
be noted in order to plant the kinds looking to a 
combination of colors. Some gorgeous displays are 
made by the proper planting of an assortment of 
these plants. 
Hollies, both native and European are prover- 
bially hard to transplant. Landscape gardeners 
and nurserymen who handle them largely aver that 
the only safe way is to prune them back severely 
and then cut off every leaf from them. Under this 
plan, they rarely lose any. Osmanthus, Magnolia 
grandiflora and many other broad leaved evergreens 
should be treated in the same way then they rarely 
die. 
Arbor-Vitse, hemlock and other hedges of ever- 
greens which are out of shape or which would be 
the better for pruning may have the shears applied 
at this time. But do not prune below the green 
foliage, as evergreens rarely break new^ growths 
from old wood. Neither hemlock nor arbor-vitm 
will, nor will pines. Japanese cedars will to some 
extent, but it is wise to cut no coniferous ever- 
green below its live foliage. 
It is questionable if among the whole list of or- 
namental evergreens there is a better all lound one 
than the Nordmann Fir, Picea Nordmanniana. 
There are but few evergreens come out of a winter 
as good as they went in, but this does, looking its 
usual beautiful green at all times. When purchas- 
ing them stipulate for those with good leaders. 
This and like evergreens can be planted in most all 
the northern states in early May, with every chance 
of success. 
Joseph Meehan. 
