PARK AND CEMETERY 
s 
Silver Maple, 35 ft. hig-h, with but one Norway Pine, from head of which a number of con- English Elm, 30 ft.; the main stem to 
main stem; adapted to streets. gested branches have been thinned out; 35 ft high. which all the side branches are subordinated. 
allowed to a tree in a nursery, the cost of its produc- 
tion is thereby increased, but this difference ought to 
be cheerfully paid. 
In municipal, or park nurseries, where special at- 
tention should be given to the preparation of trees for 
street planting under expert direction, care should be 
exercised in planting the seedlings far enough apart in 
the nursery to allow sufficient exposure of the stems to 
sun and air. Seedlings of soft-wooded trees are gen- 
erally large enough to transplant from the seed beds, 
one year old, and the seedlings of hard-wooded trees 
from two to three years old. The pin, and red oaks, 
which make good street trees, and the tulip and cu- 
cumber trees, should be twice transplanted in the nur- 
sery to insure a good supply of roots. It is not neces- 
sary to transplant the different maples, elms, planes, 
basswoods, and ashes, more than once, as there is sel- 
dom any difficulty in transplanting these if proper cul- 
tural conditions have been attented to. 
From the time the seedlings are placed in nursery- 
rows, strict attention should be given towards develop- 
ing one leader, and subordinating all side branches and 
laterals to one straight stem. Street trees when first 
planted in permanent positions should be clear of side 
branches from the base, up to, say about six feet, but 
the preparation for this should be a gradual process. 
It is well known that the growth of side branches give 
strength to the main stem, and the best results are at- 
tained when these are partially removed in the nursery 
row, and wholly removed to about the six feet limit 
when the tree is permanently planted. 
Leaving all the side branches entirely unpruned in 
the nursery, and suddenly removing them to the neces- 
sary limits, when the tree is planted, we think is a mis- 
take. 
In the rush of tree planting, nine-tenths of which is 
usually done in spring, notwithstanding the wisdom 
and much better way of doing it early in the fall, the 
pruning and smooth dressing of all bruised and lacer- 
ated roots, and the cutting back of long straggling 
ones, proportionately, should never under any circum- 
stances be neglected. 
Of late years I have come to the conclusion, that in 
the pruning of healthy, well-balanced hard-wood trees, 
such as the oaks, black and sugar maples, when they 
are planted, their leaders should be left uncut, but the 
side branches should be well cut back, and the oaks 
particularly, begin root action more rapidly, and 
start into vigorous growth more freely, if the side 
branches are severely^ pruned. 
1 have come across some horticulturists of late 
years, who have reasoned with me, that, if trees are 
perfectly dormant, when they are transplanted, prun- 
ing is unnecessary. I have no hesitation in saying that 
theory, observation and practice are opposed to this, and 
I have seen much poor success, and a good many fail- 
ures due to this neglect. 
When trees start from a good foundation, a little oc- 
casional pruning, to remove any congested, or decrepit 
branches, and to regulate symmetry in the head of 
the tree, is all that is necessary. When the lower limbs 
extend, and begin to interfere with traffic, it is best to 
cut them close to the trunk, as the trimming of the 
pendent twigs is only a temporary relief. 
Some trees, such as the Sugar and Norway Maples, 
usually produce dense heads of overcrowded branches, 
