96 
PARK AND ce:mb:te:ry 
“Let ns all work together,” and has clone work similar 
to that at Leamington, England. 
It is out of the cinestion to menticm in detail any 
more of the work reported, much as we shonld like 
to give it all. The references made are by way of 
showing older societies that there is still work worth 
doing, for it shonld be onr purpose not only to induce 
the formaiion of new organizations, but to encour- 
age those that are already established to other and 
great efforts. Each new work that is undertaken 
shonld be a little higher in character than any that has 
gone before. It is so that we live and grow, be we 
individuals, or societies, or municipalities. 
d o sum np : Yonr Committee suggests ( i ) that 
Improvement Societies are the already existing nen- 
clei from which great transformations shonld resnlt ; 
( 2 ) that improvement work shonld be submitted to 
business men as a l)nsiness proposition ; ( 3 ) that the 
hygienic disposition of household waste is a para- 
mount cjnestion that shonld be considered by every 
improvement organization ; ( 4 ) that bad conditions 
in cities are the logical outgrowth of bad conditions in 
towns, villages and in the conntry, and that these 
shonld be traced to their sources and preventive and 
remedial measures intstitnted all along the line; (5) 
that interested assistance is likely to follow definite 
statements of bad conditions if accompanied by a clear 
outline of practical means for overcoming them; (6) 
that Twentieth Century intelligence, admitting that 
the whole is greater than its parts, plans in a large 
way before executing details ; ( 7 ) that large aims and 
earnest work bring their own rew'ard ; and lastly (8) 
that if one ijerson present absorbs the notion that it 
would be vastly fine to line every approach to the 
home town with red bud, and wild crab, and wahoo 
and invite the birds and the squirrels to live in them 
and.-— goes home and does it, your committee will feel 
that “it has dene v hat it could.” 
STREET TREES —III. 
It would be idle to indicate the distances apart at 
which each sort of tree would be properly planted. 
Aside from the “forms” of trees, the types are re- 
stricted to certain districts — in one section of its 
range it may grow to a size of 8 or 10 feet and in 
another to too feet or more with a proportionate 
spread, or it may attain the height and proportion 
of a tall tree in one section and those of only a shrub 
in another. Likewise its shape may be very differ- 
ent in two widely separated localities. 
The spacing best suited for each sort is best esti- 
mated by a consideration of the proportions it at- 
tains in the locality in which it is proposed to be 
planted. Such an estimate should be partially de- 
rived from a calculation of various influences, as its 
approximate spread in various exposures ; in different 
soils ; in relation to the water table ; moisture, eleva- 
tion, protection, drainage, grades, etc. Except fas- 
tigiate forms there are but few of the medium or 
tall growing sorts that justify planting 30 feet or less 
apart unless alternated with a temporary sort or un- 
less their life is apt to be much shortened by adverse 
circumstances, as in the heart of a closely built dis- 
trict with narrow and paved streets and an abundance 
of smoke and noxious gases. 
After planting, each tree should be supported; 
have its trunk protected from the dry winds and heat;, 
from accidental or malicious injury, and to a reasona- 
ble extent from the gnawing of animals. Staking by 
poles need be but for 2 or 3 years if the trees are 
young and thrifty and develop rapidly ; or for a longer 
period if large trees are utilized, or if it is foreseen 
that for any cause their becoming well established will 
require 3 or more years. 
Wood poles such as cedar, which does not readily 
decay or become infested with insects or fungi are 
good. The support should not be very pliable. It 
is preferable to have it rigid, but comparatively incon- 
spicuous and as thin as consistent with its office. Oc- 
casionally the size of a support approaches the dimen- 
sions of a post rather than a stake. In this case the 
objection would be its ugliness. Iron guards are 
well adapted to support trees, provided the guards are 
sunk into the ground to a depth calculated to make 
them firm. 
Tying should be by heavy and strong cord. 
Strips of rubber hose or other cushion material should 
be used between the bark and the cord where the 
cord comes in contact with the tree. The cord should 
in no instance be drawn taut around the entire trunk, 
but instead should be simply and loosely looped. 
Whether close to or distant from the support the 
trunk should be held rigid to prevent chafing. 
Liability of hide binding and bark splitting is les- 
sened by protecting the trunk with cloth. Burlap or 
dull-colored cheese cloth neatly fastened and with a 
looseness so as to be snug after it has shrunk is gener- 
ally satisfactory. Neatness infers that the margins will 
be lapped, that the stitching will be regular and not 
too wide, that the protectors will be of a uniform 
height and extend to the ground. 
To support them the upper end of the protectors 
should not be fastened by tying a band around it and 
the tree, but rather by a cord fastened at one side of 
the top, then brought over one of the lowest branches, 
then encircling the trunk and tied to the top of 
the opposite side of the protector. 
Tree guards are of many patterns. Those of iron 
are serviceable. Some combine the service of sup- 
port and guard without being unduly conspicuous, 
but nevertheless serviceable and economical. 
Among the special appliances is one of loose-linked 
angled meshes. The links are intended to expand as 
