PARK AND CEMETERY 
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good perennials : Alyssum saxatile, with its golden yellow 
flowers ; Aquilegias, several species, caerulea, glandulosa, Stu- 
arti and Chrysantha being the best ; Arabis albida, Phlox pro- 
cumbens, P. Subulata and its varieties are showy dwarf 
plants ; Polemonium reptans and caerulea are good for blue 
colors ; Stellaria Holostea has numerous white star-shaped 
flowers; Veronicas, many kinds, the choicest being repestris, 
gentianoides, incana, paniculata and latifolia; Pentstemons, 
which are hardy and reliable, are P. Digitalis, diffusus, ovatus, 
barbatus, barbatus, var. Torreyi, and pubescens; Pyrethrum 
roseum, very fine, has many forms, both double and single, 
the single flowers are very pleasing; Clematis recta has pani- 
cles of beautiful white flowers ; Dianthus barbatus and many 
other species are good; Campanula Carpatica makes tufts of 
blue; Delphiniums, many kinds, and all are exceptionally 
showy plants; Dicentra spectabilis, or bleeding heart, is one 
of the most graceful hardy plants we have in early summer; 
Orobus vernus, fine early dwarf pea flowered plant ; Lychnis 
Chalcedonica and Viscaria fl. pi. are both good ; Primula veris 
and vulgaris and their varieties are well known ; Campanula 
persicifolia and its white flowered variety are of medium 
height bell flowers ; Paeonias, herbaceous kinds, are all beau- 
tiful ; Papaver orientale and its varieties are without doubt 
the showiest of hardy plants; German Irises are good border 
plants and will flourish in almost any situation; Iris laevigata 
from Japan is extra fine for late summer, but requires more 
moisture than the German Irises. Geranium sanguinea is 
about a foot in height and has a profusion of red flowers; 
Baptisia australis gives good racemes of blue flowers in June; 
Erigeron speciosum and Aster alpinus are the two best early 
compositae we have. 
For late flowering kinds the following are good ; Aconitum 
autumnale; Anemone Japonica and its varieties; the best 
Asters for border use are Novae-Angliae and its varieties. As- 
ter turbinellus and Aster Shortii, Bocconia cordata, Boltonia 
latisquama are tall, showy plants; Platycodon grandiflorum 
is a grand perennial and flowers for several months ; Coreop- 
sis grandiflora, Dictamnus fraxinella and Gaillardia grandi- 
flora are choice perennials; Helianthus mollis, Helenium au- 
tumnale and Hoopesii are good plants for the back row in the 
border; Monarda didyma is the best of the horse mints; 
Pyrethrum aliginosum, when well grown, is very showy; the 
best of the Rudbeckias are speciosa, sub-tomentosa, and golden 
glow; Scabiosa caucasica is the finest of all the species of 
Scabios; Statice latifolia is the best of the sea lavenders; 
Veronica subsessilis is very choice; Sedum spectabile is the 
handsomest of the Stonecrops ; Oenothera Missouriensis has 
the largest flowers of all the evening primroses; Eryngium 
amethystinum has roundish heads of flowers with a very 
striking blue color ; the best of the day lilies are Hemerocallis 
flava, Dumortierii and fulva. To these might be added fox- 
gloves, hollyhocks and the late flowering Phloxes. 
Some of the best bulbous plants for the borders are: Al- 
lium Moly; Bulbocodium vernum, Camassia esculenta, and 
C. Fraseri ; the different species and varieties of Crocus, Ery- 
throniums, Frittilarias, Snowdrops, Hyacinths, Lilies, Grape 
Hyacinths; Narcissus, many species and varieties; Pusch- 
kinia scilloides, Scilla siberica and Campanulata, Tulips, the 
species are very showy, some of them, such as T. Gesneriana, 
T. cornuta, and best of all is T. Greigi. 
It is not only well to know what to plant, but sometimes it 
is well to know also the plants that are not desirable for bor- 
der culture. Some of the plants are recommended in cata- 
logues, but if they once get into the border they are constantly 
a source of trouble and expense. They spread so rapidly 
that they kill the weaker plants that grow near them. The 
most troublesome of these are Achillea serrata, the variegated 
Aegopodium Podograria, Anemone Pennsylvanica, Saponaria 
officinalis, Stachys Palustris and Heliopsis laevis. 
In many cemeteries there are ideal spots for rock gardens 
where a host of herbaceous plants can be grown. In rock 
gardens tender greenhouse plants are out of place. Although 
there are many alpine plants that we can’t grow in our cli- 
mate, nevertheless we have plenty herbaceous and bulbous 
plants to use. When the suitable location is found there are 
few more interesting features of out-of-door gardening than 
this, and in early spring and at Decoration Day there would 
be no spot in the cemetery as pleasing as the Rock Garden. 
The herbaceous border and the rock garden are not the only 
places where hardy perennials can be used with good effect. 
Some of them are beautiful when naturalized in different 
parts of the grounds. Many of the spring flowering bulbs 
do admirably planted in the grass, that is, 'if the grass is not 
cut before the foliage of the bulbs withers. Narcissus poeticus 
is especially fine when grown in this way. At Prof. Sargent’s 
place, in Brookline, Mass., it is grown beautifully in this way 
and is a magnificent sight when in bloom. Bulbs such as Cro- * 
cuses and Scillas that are planted in places where the grass 
has to be cut before the foliage of the bulbs matures, has gen- 
erally to be planted every year. This ought not to be an 
objection to those beautiful bulbs, as they are so very cheap 
now. The tall summer and autumn flowering Compositae, 
such as Heleniums, Rudbeckias, Helianthuses, Silphiums, As- 
ters and Golden Rods make a splendid showing when planted 
amongst shrubbery. Lilies are at their best when planted in 
Rhododendron beds. Along water margins there are many 
plants which lend themselves very pleasingly and give excel- 
lent effects, such are Irises, Cardinal flowers, Lythrums, and 
many kinds of grasses. I recollect a tasteless arrangement I 
saw in a cemetery, a large pond encircled with a double row 
of Salvia Splendens. 
Another use which the large growing perennials are admir- 
ably adapted for is to produce subtropical effects. There 
are quite a few plants that can be used in this way. For 
example, Helianthuses, Silphiums, Bocconias, Arundo Donax, 
Eulalia Japonica and its varieties, Aralias, Acanthuses, Poly- 
gonums, Rheums, Heracleums, Centaureas, Eryngiums and 
Echinops. 
There are many hardy and half hardy perennials which 
make showy and attractive beds on the lawn. Silene pendula 
and the forget-me-nots, which are grown as annuals, make 
excellent beds for early spring. Phlox procumbens, P. subu- 
lata and P. reptans are also good for early work. Stellaria 
Holostea is very good for white. The dwarf Veronicas are 
all good in early summer. The tall growing Phloxes, Paeo- 
nias, Irises and the tall, graceful grasses all lend themselves 
readily to this kind of work. 
There are many inquiries about perennials that will grow 
under trees. I have found the following very satisfactory: 
Vancouveria hexandra, all kinds of Funkias, Pachysandras, 
Hepaticas, Asarum Europaeum, Ajuga reptans^ Orobus ver- 
nus, Lily-of-the-Valley and many kinds of ferns. 
The propagation is either by seed, cuttings or division of 
the plants. Every cemetery ought to have a small nursery and 
grow their own plants, instead of buying them. Plants are 
easily raised from seed and can be raised in quantity. 
The winter protection of herbaceous perennials is important 
Plants that are not reliably hardy can be protected with any 
material which is not too moist or close. Most of the peren- 
nial plants that are in ordinary cultivation need no protection, 
but in the Eastern States we find that a coating of some mate- 
rial that keeps them from excessive freezing and thawing 
during the winter is very beneficial to the plants. If barn- 
yard manure is used, a double advantage is obtained, the 
