78 
PARK AND CEMETERY. 
ASKED AND ANSWERED 
An exchange of experience on practical matters by our readers. You 
are invited to contribute questions and answers to this department . 
Getting Rid of Moles. 
I would like to ask in your next issue the 
test method of getting rid of moles. They 
have almost taken the cemetery and we 
must get rid of them. — O. A. W., Mo. 
We are bothered some with moles every 
year. We trap them and catch every sea- 
son from one to two dozen. We watch 
for them, find where they are working and 
set our trap on the runway. I know of no 
way but to keep everlastingly at it. 
Leroy Christie, 
Supt., Ottumwa Cemetery. 
Ottumwa, la. 
We find the spring traps the best rem- 
edy to keep the moles down to the mini- 
mum number. It seems impossible to erad- 
icate the pest entirely from our cemetery. 
Occasionally placing moth halls in their run 
will have a tendency to move Mr. Mole. 
The use of the moth ball, and having 
plenty of steel spring traps set, is about 
the best and most effective way of com- 
bating the evil. Wm. Mittelbach, 
Supt., Walnut Grove Cemetery. 
Boonville, Mo. 
As to moles, we trap and kill them with 
a spring trap placed over the runway. 
When sprung, the spikes in the trap shoot 
down and transfix the mole. They can 
also be destroyed by the fumes of carbon 
bisulphite, which we use in quantities for 
killing ants. Frank Hotchkiss, 
Supt., Bellefontaine Cemetery. 
St. Louis, Mo. 
We have used the mole trap, and that 
only. We had more moles than anybody, 
but are now rid of them, catching only two 
to four a year. Stanley M. Heyer, 
Supt., Elmwood Cemetery. 
Kansas City, Mo. 
The Heartley mole trap, sold by Geo. W. 
Heartley, 902 Summit street, Toledo, O., is 
widely used for trapping moles. It does 
not jump from the ground when sprung 
and will catch a mole deep in the ground. 
It has no points or obstructions sticking 
out of the ground to endanger children or 
stock. It extends only five inches above 
the ground and seven inches in the ground. 
It is recommended for hot-beds, as it will 
not interfere with the glass cover. It doei 
not have to be dug out to remove the mole. 
All that is necessary is to draw the trap 
out of the ground when sprung. The mole 
comes out with trap, which does not deface 
the lawn or injure plants. The first thing 
to do is to find the mole's runway, which 
usually starts from a building, a fence or 
a piece of ground not often disturbed. 
They pass through these runways regu- 
larly about 6 a. m., 12 m. and 6 p. m. Set 
your trap on one of these runways. As 
many as thirty moles have been taken from 
one of these runways by a Heartley mole 
trap. Press the runway down firmly with 
the foot, then grasp Ihe levers and force 
the points of the jaws through the mole’s 
runway until trip rests firm on the ground ; 
then force levers apart until locked with 
trip, as shown in the illustration. Care 
should be taken to see that the trap is in 
line with the mole’s runway, so mole can 
enter between the jaws and force the trip 
np, thus springing the trap. When trap 
is sprung, simply grasp the levers and pull 
the trap up and the mole will come as 
shown in the other picture. The joints 
should be kept well oiled. 
Heartley Mole Trap, Sprung - with 
Open as Set. Mole Caught. 
* * * 
As to moles, they are not easily trapped, 
but can be exterminated in two ways. Bi- 
sulphite of carbon poured in the runs, 
then covered up, will do the work very 
well, if no part of the run is tramped 
down, as this would close the run and 
prevent the fumes pentrating to all points. 
As this is a heavy gas, it settles to the 
lowest point, so pour it into the run at 
the highest points. Another method which 
is the surest way is to tramp down all runs 
by 10 a. m. ; then go back at 12:30, and if 
the mole has been working, tamp the runs 
down again and step away from the runs 
six to ten feet and watch. In five min- 
utes he will begin to work. Let him work 
until he has raised the ground for two or 
three feet, then quietly slip up and with 
your heel tamp the run just where he 
started to work. He will back up in the 
run to a point just in front of your heel. 
Stick a three-pronged meat fork into the 
run just half the length of a mole (two or 
three inches) ahead of your heel, and you 
will get your mole. Hold fork in place and 
dig around it and take him out. If it is 
cloudy weather and it looks like rain, and 
you find he has not worked by 12:30, go 
back at 3 p. m., as it is their habit to 
change time of working to a later hour if 
it is going to rain. Moles usually work 
early in the morning, at noon, and again 
in the evening, about the time men eat 
their meals. Sid J. Hare. 
Kansas City, Mo. 
Dust Laying on Brick Roads. 
Editor Asked and Answered : I wish to 
kindly ask you to answer in the next copy 
of Park and Cemetery the question as to 
what is the best dust layer for brick roads, 
where there is a lot of traffic and also 
street cars running. No doubt there are 
some of the cemeteries that use a dust 
layer for brick roads, who may be kind 
enough to advise us what is the best kind. 
— J. S„ 111. 
None of our cemeteries in this vicinity 
have brick roads, nor have we had any ex- 
perience in treating brick roads with a dust 
layer. A properly pitch-filled brick pave- 
ment can be Hushed with water, and there- 
fore in this vicinity we do not have a call 
for a dust layer on brick pavements. 
Barrett Mfg. Co. 
This brick road must be on the highway 
adjoining the cemetery. City or town man- 
agement should keep it well swept and 
sprinkled. No other treatment to keep the 
dust’ down, to my knowledge. No ceme- 
tery would have a brick pavement on its 
grounds. Jno. W. Keller, 
Supt., Mt. Hope Cemetery. 
Rochester, N. Y. 
This is a question which seldom comes 
up, because of the infrequency of such 
trouble. Without knowing what causes the 
dust in this particular instance, it would 
be difficult to advise as to the best remedy. 
In general, however, it would seem that 
sprinkling with water would be the best, 
and perhaps only, successful way of keep- 
ing a brick road surface free from dust. 
E. L. Powers, 
Secretary, Am. Road Builders’ Assn. 
New York. 
I have nearly a mile of brick drive in this 
cemetery. We are not troubled with any 
excessive dust, as most, in fact, all the 
travel over them is funerals. We never 
sprinkle or sweep them. Our greatest 
trouble is the growing of weeds between 
the bricks. This we overcome with weed 
killer. C. G. Simon, 
Supt., Mt. Peace Cemetery. 
Philadelphia, Pa. 
Solvay calcium chloride is used by sev- 
eral cities in solutions for winter sprink- 
ling on pavements, not only as a dust layer, 
but to prevent freezing. The only in- 
stance we know of where the material was 
used in the summer was in the village of 
Solvay, N. Y., adjoining our works, the 
application being made in liquid form on 
vitrified brick pavement. The results are 
very satisfactory, and it does not seem to 
cause any deterioration of the brick. The 
cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis have 
used calcium chloride in solution for a 
number of years on all kinds of paved 
streets. This has been used mostly in the 
winter time, when sprinkling with water 
was impossible on account of freezing. A 
calcium chloride solution can be made non- 
freezing at a temperature as low as SO de- 
grees below zero. Of course, where there 
is no absorption of the calcium chloride 
by the road material the effect of the 
chloride is conditional on the amount of 
