66 
TEAVELS IN CENTEAL AFEICA. 
ruins on the island of Philse^ picturing glorious Cleopatra loitering 
on its terraces or reposing beneath the palm trees. In this sunny 
clime imagination runs riot; I gave the reins to mine_, and such 
golden^ crimson^ and purple-tinted clouds crowned my fancies. 
One day I picked up a tiny bronze eagle : we thought it might have 
been the ornamentation on the top of a Roman standard-lance ; 
another day a wonderfully perfect granite head^ well chiselled^ 
became a prize. 
On our way down the Nile we visited,, for the first time^ magni- 
ficent Edfoo^ now partially cleared of the ponderous encumbrance 
of sand which for ages had almost concealed it from view. His 
Highness Said Pasha gave orders for this undertaking to be com- 
menced, and to him all lovers of antiquity must be ever grateful. 
^^At Luxor we next arrived, bright with reminiscences to us, 
though darkened for a moment when my poor horse, ^ Luxor,^ was 
thought of. At that place, in July, 1861, we had first seen him, 
curvetting and prancing, during the fantasia which Petherick gave 
to celebrate the anniversary of my birthday, and, because I had 
admired him, was purchased. 
Once more we were induced to visit grand Karnac, and were 
accompanied by the Consular Agent, Mustapha Aga, who kindly 
lent us gaily- caparisoned horses. He pointed out the house built 
on a ruined temple, at Luxor, usually occupied by Lady Duff 
Gordon : she was then absent. 
On our return to the ^ Kathleen,^ wearying for home tidings, I 
asked Consul Mustapha if he could let me see any newspapers. 
His son went to their home for a few in his possession. Such a 
treat it was to see the dear English type again ! but almost the 
first paragraph which attracted my attention was the one relating 
the awfully sudden death of Captain Speke. For his untimely end 
