ARRIVAL AT BERBER. 
53 
camel died an hour before. We heard this with regret^ for he had 
proved a patient animal^ and we reproached ourselves with having 
travelled too far the preceding day. Most of the came] s were knocked 
up, and, with their loads near them, were left behind. We expected 
to reach Berber this day. The Doctor, mounted on a miserable camel, 
with difficulty kept up with us. We noticed that Ali was dressed 
very grandly, and that he rode a donkey instead of his camel. Ask- 
ing the reason, he said, My village is before ; T is there my wife 
and mother live : they have sent me this donkey that I may be able 
to ride on quickly and see them for a few moments. Will you give 
permission?"’^ It was granted. The sun was rising as we drew 
near this village : it was prettily situated. Each hut had its plot 
of cultivated ground, and groves of the palm and mimosa surrounded 
it. As we passed we heard great cries of joy from the people of 
the village — their welcome to Ali. He soon rejoined us. 
The approach to Berber was across a vast sandy plain. The sun 
was high, and we were all sulfering from the heat and fatigue ; we 
had been in the saddle ten hours. Berber appeared in sight long 
ere we reached it. It seemed a town of importance : the Governor's 
house occupied a large space of ground. 
We were met by the reises and crews of our boats, and by the 
servants who had preceded us at different times with the baggage 
from Korosko. All crowded round us, almost impeding the pro- 
gress of the camels. Guns were fired in ’every direction, and a 
large portion of the people turned out to give us a welcome. I was 
an object of great curiosity, as I believe I was the first female to 
ride across the desert seated only on a Machloofa (the riding and 
not a pack saddle or Howeea ) . 
The Governor sent messengers to say that his kiosk in a garden 
had been prepared for our reception, and that all he possessed 
