312 
TEAVELS IN CENTEAL AFEICA. 
eyes fall of surprise as they looked upon me, and a murmur of 
‘‘Miskeen^^ (‘^‘'poor thing ! I heard. I knew not how great was the 
change in my appearance until I approached a mirror ; it then was 
evident, startling even myself : A woman clothed in unwomanly 
rags,^'’ skin red-browned, face worn and haggard, hair scorched crisp, 
and clad in a scanty dress of gaudy calico, purchased from one of 
the soldiers ; this was the object reflected. How comfortable and 
home-like the cabins looked, with couches, tables, &c. ! Luggage 
of the travellers, Speke and Grant, writing and drawing materials 
were scattered about, as they had but just left the Kathleen 
for a stroll, when the summons was received that the “ Kathleen 
was to be dispatched to meet us. As we approached Gondokoro, 
the Catholic Mission-house (unfortunately now abandoned) was 
looked upon with intense interest ; it was well situated on an 
eminence, some fine sycamore trees made picturesque the high 
pointed straw tookuls nestled around them, and a flotilla of boats, 
with flags of many nations, enlivened the usually deserted bright, 
glorious river. Arrived at the bank, and the dahabyeh moored. 
Captains Speke and Grant, accompanied by Mr. Baker, stepped 
on board. How much there was to relate, but how far out in their 
calculations both Captain Speke and Petherick had been as to the 
date of their probable meeting ! Mr. Baker invited us to dine 
on board his dahabyeh; Speke and Grant were also his guests. 
Pleasant, indeed, was it to sit once more at a comfortably appointed 
table, and refreshing was the tea served— so long untasted by us. 
I had not then the heart to break to Captain Grant the sad tidings 
we had for him, but the following morning I gave him the letters 
entrusted by his relatives to our care. 
It is evident Petherick is in ill favour here ; the traders and their 
men are enraged in consequence of his efibrts to put down the 
