12 
CHINESE ENTERTAINMENTS. 
invites the guests to take a glass ; on which each of them lays hold, 
with both hands, of that which is placed before him, raising it as 
high as his forehead, then bringing it lower down than the table, and at 
last putting it to his mouth ; they all drink together, and very slowly, 
taking three or four draughts. While they are drinking, the dishes 
on each of the tables are removed, and others brought in. Each of 
the guests has twenty-four set before him in succession ; all fat, and 
in the form of ragouts. They never use knives in their repasts ; and 
two small-pointed sticks, ornamented with ivory or silver, serve them 
instead of forks. They never begin to eat, however, until they are 
invited by the maitre de hotel ; and the same ceremony must be 
gone through every time they are going to take a cup of wine, or 
begin a new dish. 
Some change has been made in the ceremonial of the Chinese by 
the Tartar conquest, and some new dishes have also been introduced, 
for the Tartars are much better cooks than the Chinese. All their 
dishes are highly seasoned ; and by various proportions of spiceries, 
they form a variety of dishes out of the same materials. 
None of their viands, however, are more esteemed than stags’ 
sinews, and the nest of a particular species of birds, which give a 
most agreeable relish to whatever is mixed with them. Other dishes 
are introduced at these repasts, which would be accounted very 
disagreeable with us ; such as the flesh of wild horses, the paw^s of 
a bear, and the feet of several wild animals. The greater part of 
these provisions is brought preserved in salt from Siam, Camboya, 
and Tartary. Tow'ards the middle of the entertainment, the soup is 
brought in, accompanied with small loaves or pies. These they take 
up with their small sticks, steep them in the soup, and eat them, 
w ithout waiting for any signal, or being obliged to keep time with the 
rest of the guests. The entertainment, however, continues in other 
respects with the utmost formality, until tea is brought in ; after 
which, they retire from table, and amuse themselves in another hall, 
or in the garden, for a short time, until the dessert is brought in. 
This, like the entertainment itself, consists of twenty-four dishes, 
made up of sweetmeats, fruits differently prepared, hams or salted 
ducks baked or dried in the sun, with shell and other kinds offish. 
The same ceremonies which preceded the repast, are now renewed, 
and every one sits dowm at the same place he occupied before. 
Larger cups are then brought, and the master invites the guests to 
drink more freely. The entertainment is concluded by some theatrical 
representations, accompanied with the music of the country. A cer- 
tain number of spectators are admitted to behold these theatrical 
representations ; and even the women are allow'ed to view them 
through a wicket, so contrived that they may see them without being 
seen themselves. These entertainments never end till midnight. 
A small sum of money is given to the domestics; when each of the 
guests goes home in a chair preceded by several servants, who carry 
large lanterns of oiled paper, on wlfich are inscrihed the quality, 
and sometimes the name of the master. Without such an attendance, 
they would be taken up by the guard ; and the day following, they 
return a card of thanks to the officer. 
