AND LLONAKH VALLEYS OF SIKKIM. 
143 
several men to carry is here simply a source of trouble. C. had been 
frequently on the Singalela and other spurs before and his con- 
clusion is that light Willesden canvas sleeping-tents are the most 
satisfactory, total weight each 20 lbs., triangular with only oue 
aperture, the door being continuous with the sides. Canvas sheets 
fifteen feet square of the same material give the hardy Lepcha 
collectors a shelter which they much appreciate as they are readily 
transformed into tents with the aid of some poles from the forest. 
As for carriers they must be hired in Darjeeling. Local men 
can be got stage by stage to take goods to Cheungtong, but up 
to Lachen and Thango the supply is uncertain and in Zemu and 
Llonakh itself there are no inhabitants to hire. In upper Sikkim 
the inhabitants are few and often ‘ not at home ’ being chiefly 
herdsmen, and the traveller who relies on local supply of coolies 
may experience exasperating delay. When we wished an extra 
man or so, we sometimes were unable to oDtain him not from any 
unwillingness on the part of the people but simply because 
coolies were not available. Our own party numbered 20 
coolies eight Lepcha collectors and boys and three personal 
servants and the 20 coolies represent about a minimum. Not only 
had most of our own supplies to be carried but we had to 
feed the men also. The country produces little or nothing for 
the stranger as there is little trade and the inhabitants grow only 
what they require, tip to Gangtok the coolie train can obtain 
provisions — beyond that one must provide for them. The traveller 
himself may obtain an occasional fowl of uncertain age and 
certain toughness and sometimes eggs. At Lachen in J uly- 
August very excellent potatoes may be purchased and a few beans 
and turnips. In the Zemu valley — nothing. It may happen that 
a flock of sheep be grazing there — probably not more than one 
flock — and sheep, milk, and butter, thus be available. Partridges 
and pigeons are not scarce. In the Llonakh during the short 
summer many herds of yak and sheep come across the border and 
the Tibetan attendants are very obliging and willing to trade. 
Barter is not necessary — they have learnt to recognise a rupee. A 
good sheep may be had here for 114; wild geese, ducks, pigeons 
arc not uncommon. Wild sheep — Ovis nahura — are seen occa- 
sionally, but they are not to be reckoned upon as a probable source 
of supply. 
' Our staff of coolies was quite inadequate to carry all the im- 
pedimenta including collecting materials; so we had the bulk of 
the stores taken by mules to Lachen as a base and the"men went 
backwards and forwards between Lachen and our shifting camps. 
B 2 
