AND LLONAKH VALLEYS OF SIKKIM. 
157 
The flats show evidence of strong persistent winds. The vegeta- 
tion is" almost entirely of the tussock type. The junipers and 
rhododendrons form mound-like projections on the plain, and 
their branches are gnarled and prostrate. Neither shrub nor herb 
raises itself more than a few inches above the general level of the 
plain. Only in the shelter of soj^ huge boulder or by the cliffs 
do we find a plant one foot high. Our camp for the first two days 
was pitched in the centre of this open area but the night winds 
with occasional snow soon persuaded us to seek a more sheltered 
position near Teble where wood and water were more convenient 
and where the yak-herds could supply us with fresh milk and 
butter. The dwarf juniper provides excellent fuel and is fairly 
plentiful. It does not seem to be much used by the yak-herdsmen 
who prefer the dried yak-dung. 
During our stay of nearly a fortnight in this valley the weather 
continued wonderfully regular. The morning broke clear with a 
north wind which prevailed until the afternoon. Then about 2 or 
3 p.M. the south wind began to steal up the Llonakh gorge, bring- 
ing clouds from the valley below. With this wind came sometimes 
a gentle shower, sometimes mist and sleet. But the total rainfall 
is slight and we had reason to congratulate ourselves on finding one 
place in the East Himalayas where one may escape the full fury of 
the monsoon rains. The nights were piercingly cold with generally 
hoar-frost and occasionally a light fall of snow. The dawn brought 
gloriously clear views of the mighty ranges to the west and north. 
Tibetan and Sikkimese herdsmen with sheep and yaks are scat- 
tered throughout the area and the total must be near one thousand 
yaks and twice as many sheep, the majority of which come from 
the vicinity of Khambajong over the Naku La. The pasturage 
seems sparse and poor from lack of grasses but it is evidently much 
valued. The yaks and sheep are in good condition and those of 
the latter which we tested had an excellent flavour. 
Shifting camp on the 2nd August, we explored the lower end of 
the Naku Chu valley and the ridges to the east. Two or three 
miles up the stream we came upon a succession of swamps, more 
or less divided by lateral moraines. Over these swamps yaks were 
grazing while on the scattered lakelets were numerous wild geese 
and ducks some of which provided for us a pleasant change from 
tinned provisions. At the north end of the swamp is a square 
erection of rough stones possibly a blockhouse but called by our 
Tibetan guide and by a Khambajong family encamped near it the 
Gumpa ” and said to have been erected to mark off the La hen 
c 
