THE farmer’s manual. 
131 
if the weather is mild. If the fermentation is too 
powerful, and the heat too active, give it air by rais- 
ing the lights in your frame, until you have obtained 
a right temperature; (which you may determine by 
placing your hand upon the bed, or even thrusting 
your hand into it.) You may then plant your early 
cucumbers, radishes, sallads, &c. ; these plants will 
soon come forward, and may be transplanted on to 
other hot-bcds, not so powerful, or promiscuously, 
into the garden, and covered with other small frames, 
of 1,2, or 4 panes of glass according to circum- 
stances, and the remainder may stand for use. These 
plants may be brought to perfection, generally, about 
one month earlier than in open ground. 
Asparagus may be forced in hot-beds to advan- 
tage, in the following manner. Draw, or dig from 
your asparagus-bed, as many roots as will fill your 
hot-beds, and set them in rows that will admit the 
hoe between, and from one to three inches asunder 
in the rows, (roots of four years old, and that have 
never been cut, answer best ;) cover with your frame, 
and when you pick for use, cut within the ground. 
Peas. 
Prepare your pea- ground as soon as the frost is out, 
by digging and raking, until it is completely pulve- 
rized ; if your soil is weak, manure with live or 
leached ashes, or chip-dung, and rake it in ; then 
plant your early hotspurs in double rows, 4 or 5, or 
even 6 inches asunder, and set your peas by hand, 
about half an inch distance in the rows ; cover light- 
ly, and press down the surface of the earth upon the 
rows with the hoc. Hoe them gently as soon as they 
come up, and when you set your brush for support- 
ers, set one row in the centre between the double 
rows. Be sure to select for this crop the driest and 
warmest soil in your garden, particularly, such as is 
secured from the north winds, by a tight fence, or a 
w’all. 
