no FERNS AND FERNERIES. 
PLANTING. 
Now for a word about planting the Ferns. An excellent effect is produced by planting a number 
QJJ0 spscies or variety in a massj and next to it a ni3ss of a different hind^ distinct in form or 
colour, £3 as to create a contrast, by which the beauty of each variety is greatly enhanced, and made 
conspicuous. Large growing Ferns of course should be placed singly to stand up above the others, 
and to show off their individual graces. Care should also be taken to secure a proper balance of form 
and colour in the disposal of specimens or clumps. 
WATER.— SUSPENDED BLOCKS. 
In a fernery such as that described trickling and running water, or even water standing in 
irregularly-shaped pools, is a great improvement to the general appearance, as is also the addition of 
rough blocks of virgin cork, with Ferns secured to them by moss bound on with copper wire and 
suspended from the roof. The Davallias especially luxuriate with this treatment. These cork blocks 
are also valuable additions to ferneries where the Ferns are grown in pots on stages, and they look 
well hanging against the walls where there is sufficient bare space to admit of the addition. 
AN OUTDOOR FERNERY. 
Passing now to the construction of an outdoor fernery, I would suggest the importance of having a 
large body of compost connected throughout, if possible, and also having a broad base on the ground 
to insure uniformity of moisture and to prevent the tendency to dry up, which small bodies of soil 
are necessarily liable to when exposed to wind or sun. And, even where the sun never reaches, the 
foliage of luxuriant plants is continually, during daylight, throwing off moisture drawn by the roots 
from the soil, so that it is important to secure for them a good and steady supply in the soil in which 
they grow, otherwise much labour is involved in artificial watering, or the plants are lost for want 
of it. 
DRAINAGE. 
We must not, however, fall into the error of constructing our rockery without ample drainage, but 
should provide for the passing away of all surplus water. If the rockery is to be large, a hole should 
be dug in the ground some depth, and filled with broken bricks, crocks, clinkers, or stone, which 
should rise above the surface of the ground where the centre or ridge of the rockery will come. This 
heap of open material should then be covered with sods or some rough litter, to prevent the soil 
working into it. 
CONSTRUCTING THE ROCKWORK. 
The process of building may now be commenced, the same order being observed as that recom- 
mended for an indoor rockery, taking care to make it as irregular as possible, here projecting, there 
receding, and working upwards by the formation of terraced pockets. The stone or other material 
should be so placed as to prevent the soil washing down ; and the incline of the soil in the terraces 
should rather be inwards than outwards, so that the rain may be caused to permeate tjae whole body 
of compost, and prevent its getting dry in the interior ; and to further effect this object, there should 
be a large proportion of bog or peat, or other moisture-holding substance in the composition. 
MOUNDS AND DELLS. 
If there is abundance of room and material, I would say, dig far down in the ground, and throw 
up the soil to form miniature mountains, with natural-looking valleys between them, and use the 
stone as before directed, making the paths in and out and up and down — indeed the opposite 
of straight or level — and let the irregular stonework begin from the paths, and work upwards in 
terrace pockets as before said ; and when judiciously planted, I apprehend the effect woir^d be most 
enjoyable. We suppose, of course, that shade is provided by trees either naturally or artificially 
placed ; but in all artificial work I would say, take care that the appearance is as though no hand had 
been near it. The truest art in this kind of work is found in that which looks least artificial. One 
further remark may be made as to the fixing of the rock. It should, in all cases, be made thoroughly 
firm. Commence at the front with stone slightly embedded in the earth, and rammed firmly at the 
back, the stones being set at such angles, where possible, as to cause them to lock into or against each 
other, according to shape. Each tier of stone should have its foundation rammed solid, and then 
be rammed well at the back as the soil is filled in, so that the whole may be a solid structure, not 
to be moved either by wind or rain, or even by persons climbing over it. 
FILLING UP CREVICES. 
The ramming of the soil must not extend further than necessary, but room must be left in the 
pocket for plenty of loose soil to receive the roots of the Ferns, and for them to grow in. To prevent 
the soil washing through the interstices of the stone, lumps of bog or peat may be used, which serve 
well to hold up the compost in its place, and also as a good material for the plants to root in, and 
thus to make a firm mass. This packing of the joints of the stone with bog reminds me of the 
