112 
RESIDENCE AT CARACAS. 
four hundred and fifty toises high, hut very near the sea, 
does not secure the inhabitants against a scourge which was 
believed to belong only to the low regions of the coa3t. 
Chapter XIII. 
Abode at Caracas. — Mountains in the vicinity of the Town. — Excursion 
to the Summit of the Silla. — Indications of Mines. 
I remained two months at Caracas, where M. Bonpland 
and I lived in a large house iu the most elevated part of the 
town. From a gallery we could survey at once the summit 
of the Silla, the serrated ridge of the Galipano, and the 
charming valley of the Guayra, the rich culture of which was 
pleasingly contrasted with the gloomy curtain of the sur- 
rounding mountains. It was in the dry season, and to im- 
prove the pasturage, the savannahs and the turf covering the 
steepest rocks were set on fire. These vast conflagrations, 
viewed from a distance, produce the most singular effects of 
light. Wherever the savannahs, following the undulating 
slope of the rocks, have filled up the furrows hollowed out 
by the waters, the flame appears in a dark night like currents 
of lava suspended over the valley. The vivid but steady 
light assumes a reddish tint, when the wind, descending 
from the Silla, accumulates streams of vapour in the low 
regions. At other times (and this effect is still more 
curious) these luminous bands, enveloped in thick clouds, 
appear only at intervals where it is clear ; and as the clouds 
ascend, their edges reflect a splendid light. These various 
phenomena, so common in the tropics, acquire additional 
interest from the form of the mountains, the direction of 
the slopes, and the height of the savannahs covered with 
alpine grasses. During the day, the wind of Petare, blowing 
from the east, drives the smoke towards the town, ana 
diminishes the transparency of the air. 
If we had reason to be satisfied with the situation of our 
douse, we had still greater cause for satisfaction in the 
reception we met with from all classes of the inhabitants. 
Though I have had the advantage, which few Spaniards have 
